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La partie centrale de la rive droite de la vallée de l'Elbe offre plus de 210 voies sur 16 tours et parois – parmi les plus grandes, Baldachýn, Malá et Velká bašta, Trůn, Zrcadlo et Letní rezidence. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux, broches scellées et protections textiles, souvent au soleil ; du 3 au 9+.

Faisant partie de 6. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive droite, 07. Centrální část possède 211 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 3 à 9+. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun.

Règles

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Escalade de jour uniquement.
  • Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
  • Les sauts ne sont pas autorisés.
  • Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive droite : spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84856, 14.22209

6+/7-
Ledová stěna
As "Summit of the Glacier" to the 4th K, then diagonally right via a crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Ledová stěna
Middle of the valley wall over 3 K into the crack and via it to the balcony. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Ledová stěna
Between the routes "Northern Wind" and "Gabarrou" along the depression, higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Ledová stěna
In the left part of the valley wall to the fore-rock and along the edge over 9 BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Titanic
From the balcony of Ferryman's Wrath, traverse right over the overhang via BH and an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Titanic
From the ledge of Ferryman's Wrath, continue directly along the right edge over 5 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Ledová stěna
In the left part of the wall over 3 K into the crack and via it to the 4th K. Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Titanic
Middle of the valley wall to K. Left over the overhang to the 2nd K of "Ferryman's Wrath"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Titanic
From the balcony of "Ferryman's Wrath" via a crack over the overhang and arbitrarily to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Titanic
Left part of the wall over 3 K below the overhang. Above it and up the wall (2 K) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Titanic
Right valley edge (K) into the ledge and traverse left to the 2nd K. Up the wall to the…
6+/7-
Titanic
From S via a corner to the fore-rock. Over the ledge via a corner and crack to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Titanic
To the left of the path "Vymáchané necky" (Rinsed Trough) via ribs and wall over 5 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Titanic
Left valley edge over K to the balcony and overhanging W wall over 4 BH to the 3rd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Titanic
From the 3rd K of the route "Broken Bone" traverse left to the edge and along it over BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Titanic
Pillar to the left of the Titanic. Through the middle of the slab over 8 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Titanic
On the left fore-rock from the left along the edge and wall over 4 K to the terrace for… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Titanic
Pillar to the left of the Titanic. Entry to the left of the Kryštof Columbus route,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Pod Marínou
In the NW face. Right of the Return of Friendship route, along the cracks slightly to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Pod Marínou
Right of the "Nervous Starts" route, by the crack to the ring, above it left and by the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Pod Marínou
Start in the steep face of the pre-rock, up the wall (6 bolts) to the rappel. (see TOPO) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Pod Marínou
Left of the Sexual Handbook route, up the wall over 3 bolts to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pod Marínou
Right of the Free the Beer! route, by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Pod Marínou
Up the wall right of the "Dead Bones" route over 2 rings to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Pod Marínou
In the right part of the steep wall, from the niche along the crack to the small balcony … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Pod Marínou
At the right lower edge of the gorge, over 4 rings to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Pod Marínou
In the left part of the steep wall, over 4 bolts to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Samotka
From the slope, left of the "Clean Shield" route, up the wall to the horizontal notch and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Apač
From the South, diagonally left and slightly upwards below the overhang. Traverse right… Rock Climbing
6-
Apač
By the crack at the left edge in the SE face to the bolt, straight up and by chimney to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay

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