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Grimper à 07. Centrální část

211 voies
16 domaines
3–9+ notes

La partie centrale de la rive droite de la vallée de l'Elbe offre plus de 210 voies sur 16 tours et parois – parmi les plus grandes, Baldachýn, Malá et Velká bašta, Trůn, Zrcadlo et Letní rezidence. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux, broches scellées et protections textiles, souvent au soleil ; du 3 au 9+.

Faisant partie de 6. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive droite, 07. Centrální část possède 211 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 3 à 9+. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun.

Règles

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Escalade de jour uniquement.
  • Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
  • Les sauts ne sont pas autorisés.
  • Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive droite : spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84856, 14.22209

Google Waze
Baldachýn 31 voies Malá bašta 30 voies Velká bašta 30 voies Trůn 24 voies Zrcadlo 15 voies Letní rezidence 13 voies Titanic 13 voies Pod Marínou 10 voies Hektor 10 voies Ledová stěna 9 voies Minaret 8 voies Apač 6 voies Sluneční zahrada 4 voies Nešvar 4 voies Bufet 2 voies Samotka 2 voies
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
7/7+
Apač
By the route of the 'Mazaks' and above the bolt, left along the edge directly over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Apač
Through the center of the SE face over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Apač
By the original route below the overhang, traverse left behind the edge into the steep… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Apač
From the chimney by the crack to the bolt, up the edge by the fissure diagonally left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pod Marínou
On the left in the left part of the wall over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Malá bašta
To the right of the start, up the wall and crack to the fissure. Rock Climbing
5+
Malá bašta
Up the second crack from the right diagonally to the right and upwards to its end. Then… Rock Climbing
6
Malá bašta
On the right side of the massif, past 6 bolts to the 1st ring of the "Let's Escape to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Malá bašta
In the left part of the South face, by broken crack to the ledge and right to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Samotka
From the slope, in the right part of the East face, through the corner to the horizontal… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Malá bašta
In the center of the South face, by chimney and wall (2 rings) to the ledge to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Malá bašta
Right of the "Hejkal" route, up the wall and edge past 11 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+/7-
Malá bašta
Up the crack and wall past 6 bolts (BH) to the rappel bolt (BH). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Malá bašta
To the right of the "Jasná zpráva" route, up the wall past 9 bolts (BH) to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Malá bašta
As for "Drobná spára" to the ledge. To the right up the wall past 5 bolts (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Malá bašta
Start up the edge to the right of the "Americký sen" route to the 1st bolt (K). Into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Malá bašta
To the left of "Jasné zprávy", up the crack to the edge. Rock Climbing
6
Malá bašta
Start from the ledge in the lowest part of the massif. Up the wall and crack to the… Rock Climbing
6
Malá bašta
Up the edge to the left of the "Jasné zprávy" corner past 3 bolts (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Malá bašta
To the right of the "Černý spáry" route, along the crack to the left to a ring on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malá bašta
To the left of the "Intervence" route, up the wall directly to the 1st bolt (K). Then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Malá bašta
From the 3rd ring of the "Země Antilop" route, up the center of the wall 4 bolts (BH) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Malá bašta
To the right of the start of "Černé spáry", up the crack to a ring on the balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Malá bašta
Approximately 15m to the left of "Hezké Iny", up the wall to a small balcony (K). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velká bašta
Via the "Old Thought" route to the 2nd bolt (K). Higher diagonally to the right across… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Malá bašta
To the left of "Panamericana", up the wall to the left and along the edge, then up over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malá bašta
Via the "Hezký Alfréd" route to the 4th bolt (BH). Then up the wall past 4 bolts (BH) to… Rock Climbing
5+
Velká bašta
Up the wider winding crack in the left part of the S wall to the "Eagle Edge" platform.… Rock Climbing
5
Velká bašta
In the right part of the wall, up the distinct corner 40m, diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Velká bašta
To the right of The Notched Path, up the crack to the large platform on the Eagle Edge.… Rock Climbing

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