La partie centrale de la rive droite de la vallée de l'Elbe offre plus de 210 voies sur 16 tours et parois – parmi les plus grandes, Baldachýn, Malá et Velká bašta, Trůn, Zrcadlo et Letní rezidence. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux, broches scellées et protections textiles, souvent au soleil ; du 3 au 9+.
Faisant partie de 6. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive droite, 07. Centrální část possède 211 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 3 à 9+. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun.
Règles
- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021
Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park
- Escalade de jour uniquement.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Les sauts ne sont pas autorisés.
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive droite : spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Baldachýn Malá bašta Velká bašta Trůn Zrcadlo Letní rezidence Titanic Pod Marínou Hektor Ledová stěna Minaret Apač Sluneční zahrada Nešvar Bufet Samotka
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
7/7+
Ruský exekutor
Along the right edge via 3 K to the balcony and further along the edge (3 K) to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Tatarská lajna
Via the “Light Year” route to the ledge. Directly up the wall via 4K to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Blýskání na lepší časy
Left of “Light Year” up the wall (K) to the 2nd K of “Light Year”. Continue via this to… Rock Climbing
6-
Záblesk zrcadla
Via the crack left of the “Mirror Edge” and diagonally right up the wall to the K of the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Přístupová varianta Světelného roku
From the 1st ring of the Light Year route, up the small wall left of the corner via 2 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
La Belle et la Bête
As “Light Year” via K and 2BH, then right via 2K to the ledge. Diagonally right via 5K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Světelný rok
Through the middle of the valley wall via K into the corner and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Ďábelská omáčka
In the left part of the wall via 3 bolts (K) to the edge. Along it via 2 bolts (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Kdo jsme
Right of the “Mirror Flash” route via BH to the ring of the Mirror Edge, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Rozbuška
In the right part of the Mirror via 2BH to the ledge, belay. Right and via the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Indiánská zima
From the S, through the middle of the pillar in the left part of the wall via BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zdání klame
In the left part of the wall, up the steps under a smooth corner, then to the end and… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Levá hrana zrcadla
From the 5th bolt (K) of the “Devil's Sauce” route along the edge (2K) and right to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Bílá lajna
Along with the “Looks are Deceiving” route via the corner (or initially left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ela Havana
To the left of the route "Against the Current" over a bolt onto the fore-rock to 1 piton… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Varianta cesty Zámecká zahrada ( Záhradnická)
From the 4th ring of the Zámecká zahrada (Castle Garden) route traverse right into the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Seance
Start completely left in the large corner. Left through the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ležím na polici
Left in the right part of the massif from the block through the wall over 3 bh to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Onyx
In the large corner to the right of the Seance route through the wall over 3 bh to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Malý letní hit
Left of Seance along the edge over 4 bh to the abseil bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Služebníček
High in the corner of the north face over two bh directly to the summit to the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Rehabilitační koktejl
Left in the wall in the middle of the pillar (BH) left and over 4BH to the BH of the… Rock Climbing
6
Ping-pong
Via the Café Espresso route to the 1st bolt. Further through the corner notch to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Hračička
Right wall (2 bolts), slightly from the right into the slab and through it (3rd bolt,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Mrakolapka
By opposition to the small balcony and right up the wall, later along the blunt edge (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Café espresso
Through the corner in the middle of the wall to the 1st bolt. Left onto the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Včera jsi říkal zítra
To the left above the lower pillar of Nešvaru from the small balcony, where the Švar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hromadné kojení
From the valley's lower rock formation approximately through the middle of the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Špičkování
To the left of the valley's lower rock formation from the lowest point by the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay