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Grimper à 07. Centrální část

211 voies
16 domaines
3–9+ notes

La partie centrale de la rive droite de la vallée de l'Elbe offre plus de 210 voies sur 16 tours et parois – parmi les plus grandes, Baldachýn, Malá et Velká bašta, Trůn, Zrcadlo et Letní rezidence. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux, broches scellées et protections textiles, souvent au soleil ; du 3 au 9+.

Faisant partie de 6. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive droite, 07. Centrální část possède 211 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 3 à 9+. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun.

Règles

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Escalade de jour uniquement.
  • Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
  • Les sauts ne sont pas autorisés.
  • Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive droite : spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84856, 14.22209

Google Waze
Baldachýn 31 voies Malá bašta 30 voies Velká bašta 30 voies Trůn 24 voies Zrcadlo 15 voies Letní rezidence 13 voies Titanic 13 voies Pod Marínou 10 voies Hektor 10 voies Ledová stěna 9 voies Minaret 8 voies Apač 6 voies Sluneční zahrada 4 voies Nešvar 4 voies Bufet 2 voies Samotka 2 voies
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
6+/7-
Velká bašta
Start slightly to the right of the center of the wall. Up the wall and corner to the 1st… Rock Climbing
6-
Velká bašta
Up the corner of "The Notched Path" to the large beech tree and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velká bašta
To the right of the "Huly Sport" route, briefly up the crack, then left on the wall (6K)… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Velká bašta
From the 8th K of the "Apostel Tommelfinger" route directly across the K to the 12th K. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Velká bašta
From the 5th bolt of the Huly Sport route under the ceiling and left to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Velká bašta
Like "Huly Sport" to the 3rd bolt in the overhang and straight across 2 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Velká bašta
Up the left overhanging wall (6 BH) under the overhang and through it (3 BH) diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Baldachýn
Wall (K) to the 1st K of "Bedtime Route". Left up the wall (K), higher right along the… Rock Climbing
5
Baldachýn
Completely to the right along the edge 3 BH to the ledge 4. BH diagonally right and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Baldachýn
In the right part of the massif, to the left of the retreating corner, wall 2 BH, crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Baldachýn
From the 2nd ring of the Straw Mattress route directly over bh to the 4th ring of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Baldachýn
To the right of "Bedtime Route" wall (K) over a hole to the 2nd K. Traverse right and… Rock Climbing
6
Baldachýn
Start on the right blunt edge of the wall. Along the edge and the wall slightly left… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Baldachýn
Along the Bedtime route to the small tree and further to the plateau. Right up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Baldachýn
Through the left of the two parallel chimneys directly to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Baldachýn
Through the "Right Chimney" (in the fall line of the W edge) and up the wall to K. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Baldachýn
Like "Night Life" to the 1st K. Up the wall diagonally left (2nd K) to the little corner… Rock Climbing
6
Baldachýn
About 3 m left of the Parallel Chimney route over bh, ring, bh to the 3rd ring from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Baldachýn
In the right part of the massif through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Baldachýn
To the left of the route "Night Life" wall over 2BH to the 2nd K of the route "Sweet… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Baldachýn
Via the route "Telegraph Road" to the 1st K of "Sokolík" and further along the edge (3K)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Baldachýn
Right of “Rybičkova 50” up the wall via 6BH to the 5th K and left via BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Baldachýn
From the splintered block via a delicate chimney to the end and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Baldachýn
From the chipped block diagonally right up the wall to the 1st K. Rock Climbing
6
Baldachýn
From the chipped block directly up a gentle corner, traverse approx. 3m right and wall… Rock Climbing
6
Baldachýn
From the 2nd K of the route "Let it blow behind the carriage" left over the overhang and… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Baldachýn
To the left of the cat trap from the fore-rock wall to 1K and 2BH-y to the ledge to 3BH,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Baldachýn
From the start of the “Matěj's Fair” route diagonally right to the 1st K. Up the wall via… Rock Climbing
6-
Zrcadlo
In the right part of the valley wall via the crack and left up the wall to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Baldachýn
In the NW wall, directly up the wall via BH and the balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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