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U Josefovy hlavy, sur la rive droite de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre près de 170 voies – surtout sur la Zbrojnošova stěna, la Josefova (Stalinova) hlava et la Karlova stěna, les autres sur Zbrojnoš, Stelzigův kámen et Kukačka. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles ; du 2+ au 10-/10.

Faisant partie de 6. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive droite, 16. U Josefovy hlavy possède 167 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2+ à 10-/10. Explorez ses 13 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Règles

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Escalade de jour uniquement.
  • Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
  • Les sauts ne sont pas autorisés.
  • Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive droite : spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.81420, 14.22789

7-/7
Karlova stěna
Left of the Valley Crack by the wall and along small cracks over 4 bolts to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Karlova stěna
To the left of the North Ridge by the crack 1st ring and along the edge over 4 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9+
Karlova stěna
In the South face left of the route Wild Romsdal over the overhang and by the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Volební stěna
Like 'Slippery Lux' to the ledge and left part of the wall over 4 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Volební stěna
In the corner between Volební and Karlova wall briefly by chimney and left over the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Volební stěna
Freely to the ledge and right part of the wall over 4 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Volební stěna
By the wall (BH) to the ledge and through the middle of the wall over 4 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Volební stěna
Left edge over 4 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Tajga
Approx. 3m right of the route SE Edge, from the protrusion. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Tajga
From the ledge via the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Tajga
Right of the route "Morning Torture of Waking Up" via a crack running away to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Tajga
From the massif, traverse to the upper wall and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Tajga
Right of the chimney via the rib and wall into the crack, through it to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kvádr
On the plateau side from the block via a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kvádr
In the right part of the S face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kvádr
2 m right of the valley route, directly straight up the rib to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tajga
Left in the South face via the right crack and wall over ledges to the balcony, ring from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Tajga
All the way to the right in the S face via the blunt edge through the hole to the ledge… Rock Climbing
6-
Tajga
About 6 m right of the Tears of Evenki route, up the wall to the rib over ledges to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Tajga
5 m right of the Ekshary route, up the wall to the ledge and left to the large hourglass… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tajga
All the way to the right in the plateau wall (by passage in the chimney) right via a… Rock Climbing
3
Kvádr
Along the valley wall to the left to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9+
Východní blok
Up the middle of the SW pillar directly over three BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Východní blok
To the left of Výslech (Interrogation) via a corner, via a crack to the balcony, left via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Východní blok
From the right side of the SE face via a small wall over 2 bolts to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kukačka
In the chimney between the tower and the massif, passage to the SW side, there through… Rock Climbing
4-
Kukačka
From the SW between the tower and the massif to the plateau in the chimney. Rock Climbing
2+
Kukačka
From SE (10m right of Owl) via the chimney to the saddle behind Owl and descend to the… Rock Climbing
3
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the Nagorný massif descend to the ledge, step over and directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kukačka
On the NE side, up a small wall to the ledge, along it to the right into the valley wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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