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Grimper à 16. U Josefovy hlavy

167 voies
13 domaines
2+–10-/10 notes

U Josefovy hlavy, sur la rive droite de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre près de 170 voies – surtout sur la Zbrojnošova stěna, la Josefova (Stalinova) hlava et la Karlova stěna, les autres sur Zbrojnoš, Stelzigův kámen et Kukačka. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles ; du 2+ au 10-/10.

Faisant partie de 6. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive droite, 16. U Josefovy hlavy possède 167 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2+ à 10-/10. Explorez ses 13 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Règles

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Escalade de jour uniquement.
  • Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
  • Les sauts ne sont pas autorisés.
  • Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive droite : spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.81420, 14.22789

Google Waze
Zbrojnošova stěna 39 voies Josefova (Stalinova) hlava 25 voies Karlova stěna 21 voies Zbrojnoš 13 voies Stelzigův kámen 13 voies Kukačka 11 voies Hladká věž 11 voies Tajga 10 voies Sova 8 voies Volební stěna 6 voies Východní blok 4 voies Kvádr 4 voies Masiv u Josefovy hlavy 2 voies
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
6-
Kukačka
To the right of the "Direct Valley" route, up the wall over an overhang (K) directly to K… Rock Climbing
3
Kukačka
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif. Rock Climbing
5+
Kukačka
Like "South Edge Variant", through the chimney and left to K. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kukačka
Like "Valley Route" to the ledge and along the edge (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kukačka
Through the middle of the valley wall over an overhang and a recess to another overhang.… Rock Climbing
6-
Kukačka
To the right of "Chimney", up the wall below the rappel point (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kukačka
Approach like "Valley Route" and overhanging NW wall (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the right of the chimney between Sova and Josef's Head, a corner double crack to a… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Approach from the rock outcrop to the left of the route "Service Leave". Up a small wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Through the valley chimney to the plateau and from there through the E chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the summit of "Sova", along the edge of "Stalin's Head" over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Approach to the southern pillar (Sojka) from the rock outcrop. Overhang in the corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the left of the Sunday Chimney route, up the wall to the bolt, right and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Through the chimney to Sova, in its upper part from the corner left into the wall to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the SW corner briefly to the balcony, directly up the wall into a small crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
In the N wall through a deep corner up to below the large overhang (1st K). Traverse left… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the top of Sova, along the wall over BH and K into the chimney. Through it over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the right of Direct Invitations, over the pillar via 4 bolts to the 2nd ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Up the wall between the routes Invitation and Direct Invitation over 4 bolts and a rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the left of "Chimney" on Cuckoo, through a crack, then up the wall to 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
In the NW wall, right of the start of the "Konklave" route, through cracks into a shallow… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Through the crack and wall over to K directly to 1st K "Invitations". Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Masiv u Josefovy hlavy
In the N wall, follow the right crack to its end (slings) and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Masiv u Josefovy hlavy
Left in the N wall through a crack and fissure under the overhang (slings) and over them… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the 1st K of Planet of the Apes, up the wall slightly left over BH to the end of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Right of "Planet of the Apes" up the rib to the 1st K and up to the next rib (2nd K).… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
As "Cult of Personality" to the 1st K and right up the wall and overhang. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
As Cult of Personality to the 2nd ring and straight up over 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Between "Cult of Personality" and "Planet of the Apes" up the wall into the hole, along… Rock Climbing
6-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Left in the N wall via a hand crack to K, traverse right into another crack and along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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