Aller au contenu
Hors ligne Vous êtes hors ligne et affichez une version enregistrée de cette page.
Une nouvelle version est disponible.
Retour à la liste

Grimper à 16. U Josefovy hlavy

167 voies
13 domaines
2+–10-/10 notes

U Josefovy hlavy, sur la rive droite de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre près de 170 voies – surtout sur la Zbrojnošova stěna, la Josefova (Stalinova) hlava et la Karlova stěna, les autres sur Zbrojnoš, Stelzigův kámen et Kukačka. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles ; du 2+ au 10-/10.

Faisant partie de 6. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive droite, 16. U Josefovy hlavy possède 167 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2+ à 10-/10. Explorez ses 13 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Règles

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Escalade de jour uniquement.
  • Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
  • Les sauts ne sont pas autorisés.
  • Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive droite : spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.81420, 14.22789

Google Waze
Zbrojnošova stěna 39 voies Josefova (Stalinova) hlava 25 voies Karlova stěna 21 voies Zbrojnoš 13 voies Stelzigův kámen 13 voies Kukačka 11 voies Hladká věž 11 voies Tajga 10 voies Sova 8 voies Volební stěna 6 voies Východní blok 4 voies Kvádr 4 voies Masiv u Josefovy hlavy 2 voies
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
3
Zbrojnošova stěna
In the corner, up the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zbrojnošova stěna
Up the chimney to the left of the prominent turret for about 7m. Traverse right to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Zbrojnošova stěna
Up the wall to the right of 'Šikmá spára' (Oblique Crack) into a crack running left (3 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zbrojnošova stěna
To the left of the 'Ahoj' route, up the middle of the wall over 2 BH to the second ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zbrojnošova stěna
To the right of 'Listopadová' (November), up the wall along the edge (2K) to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Zbrojnošova stěna
Approximately in the middle of the W wall, up the chimney with wedged blocks to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Zbrojnošova stěna
In the left part of the wall from a short crack obliquely right to the 1st K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Zbrojnošova stěna
Diagonally up the crack to the right to the edge. Along the edge and easy terrain to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Zbrojnošova stěna
Approximately 5 meters along the 'Šikmá spára' (Oblique Crack) route (slings) and left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zbrojnošova stěna
Obliquely up the crack into the corner to the 1st K. Left through the corner and up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Zbrojnošova stěna
To the left of the oblique crack, up the crack to the 1st K. Up the wall to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
4+
Zbrojnošova stěna
From the NW, follow the hand crack to its end. Along the edge and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Zbrojnošova stěna
To the left of the 'Těžkooděnci' (Heavily Armed) route, up the chimney, higher up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Zbrojnošova stěna
About 3m to the left of the 'Lehkoodenci' (Lightly Armed) route, up the wall and along… Rock Climbing
6-
Zbrojnošova stěna
In the left part of the wall, up the wall to a step to K. Up the indistinct pillar and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Karlova stěna
To the right of the Dance Route, climb a small pillar (1bh) to the balcony with the ring… Rock Climbing
3
Zbrojnošova stěna
To the left of 'Snadná kořist' (Easy Prey), up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zbrojnošova stěna
In the middle of the left pillar over K to the oblique crack, traverse to the right edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zbrojnošova stěna
To the left of the 'Lehkoodenci' (Lightly Armed) route, directly up the wall over a BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Zbrojnošova stěna
Up the left part of the corner to the balcony. Up the wall, through the crack over an… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Karlova stěna
As Variant and Jewish Pilgrimage to the 2nd K and right by the wall (3BH) to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Karlova stěna
In the right part of the J wall, traverse via a falconet to the platform (K). Traverse… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Karlova stěna
Start like 'Jewish Pilgrimage'. Right part of the valley wall directly into the notch … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Karlova stěna
Right of the route 'South Wind' by the wall over 3K directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Karlova stěna
By the crack in the middle of the South face over K to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Karlova stěna
Left in the South face by the overhanging wall over the ring directly to the 1st ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Karlova stěna
Right of 'Forgotten Legend' diagonally right and by the crack to the balcony to K. By the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Karlova stěna
Through the middle of the valley (W) wall over 3K to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Karlova stěna
Completely to the left in the valley wall by the rib and wall over 5 bolts to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Karlova stěna
By the valley crack to the 2nd ring by the rib and wall diagonally right over the ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

Personne ne cherche encore de partenaire ici — soyez le premier.

Trouver un partenaire d'escalade