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Grimper à Bořeň

470 voies
4 domaines
1–11 notes

Le Bořeň (539 m) est une colline de phonolite à environ 2 km au sud de Bílina, au bord nord-ouest des monts de Bohême centrale, au-dessus de la route de Most à Bílina. Vu du nord-ouest, il évoque un lion couché ; on le compare souvent à la Devils Tower du Wyoming et on le présente comme la plus grande structure phonolitique de ce type en Europe. La colline est une réserve naturelle nationale avec forêt d'éboulis, steppes rocheuses, affleurements et champs de blocs, traversée par un sentier pédagogique jusqu'au sommet et à son panorama.

Le Bořeň est l'une des montagnes d'escalade légendaires de Tchéquie – on grimpe sur des piliers et parois de phonolite, surtout en traditionnel. Les voies sont décrites dans un topo de Stanislav Emingr et Ladislav Vörös. S'agissant d'une réserve naturelle nationale, l'escalade suit les conditions de protection de la nature – vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme. Le centre d'information de Bílina renseigne sur les environs.

Faisant partie de Bohême du Nord-Ouest, Bořeň possède 470 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 11. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Règles

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles des commissions locales s'appliquent. Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé, ne pas modifier les prises.

4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
To the right of the Kapsář route up a smooth corner, higher up a crack to a platform and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Kozí (JV) pilíře
A distinct corner formed by the right-hand (lower) pillar on its left side. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
From the platform across the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Easy terrain to the terrace below the left (higher) pillar. Up the blunt edge to the bolt… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Kozí (JV) pilíře
About 3 m to the right of 'Kozí', up the crack (rock) onto the sloping platform, from… Rock Climbing Route on sun
8+/9-
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Up the wall of the small pillar, to the right of Kozí c. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Ďáblova kazatelna
A double crack descends down the (SW) wall under SK, which disappears in the lower part.… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Ďáblova kazatelna
To the right in the (W) wall along the edge to the top. (1 ring, 1 bolt) Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Up the steep wall of the left pillar along the crack (rock) briefly to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
The start is in the right part of the wall. Easy terrain in the fall line to the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
To the small platform like previous routes or by recess from the right. In the right part… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
5+
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
Up 2 m to the right of 'Invalidní'. Across, over rock to the ledge, up the slab to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4+
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
In the right part of the wall under the overhang. Up to the crack, from the right into… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
Onto the ledge to the right of 'Invalidní' and then up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
Up the prominent pillar to the right of 'Šťovíkové' to the top - rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5-
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
By the first crack, broken to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
By the second crack, broken to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
5+
Stěna u Pašeráka
The start is on the ramp right of Ďáblova kazatelna, between two ribs. Chimneying, then… Rock Climbing Route on sun
1
Stěna u Pašeráka
Over the rocks towards Ďáblova kazatelna into the shallow gully. Up it into the cave,… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Stěna u Pašeráka
Right of 'Sluneční' up the crack to the platform, down to the pillar and up it to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Stěna u Pašeráka
Up the pillar in the left part of the wall across two bolts. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4+
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
Through a crack in the right part of the small wall sections located to the left of the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6+
Stěna u Pašeráka
The start is the same as 'Sluneční'. Up the indentation by the right wall (2x bolt),… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Jižní stěna
Center of the truncated pillar to its top. From there, a fall traverse right into the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Jižní stěna
From the right side, up the chimney to the truncated pillar. A fall into the wall and up… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4+
Jižní stěna
From the platform of the truncated pillar, the route continues through the center of the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Jižní stěna
In the right part of the Ohnisko wall, in the place where a large hawthorn bush grew,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
1
Jižní stěna
Right of Ohnisko up the steps to the old oak tree. Down the steps towards Ohnisko.… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Jižní stěna
Start from the platform right of route 'Hlohová šestka'. Up the edge across 3 bolts to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5+
Jižní stěna
Climb up the steps under the overhang (right of 'Levá zmýlená'). Up the right narrower… Rock Climbing Route on sun

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