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Grimper à Bořeň

470 voies
4 domaines
1–11 notes

Le Bořeň (539 m) est une colline de phonolite à environ 2 km au sud de Bílina, au bord nord-ouest des monts de Bohême centrale, au-dessus de la route de Most à Bílina. Vu du nord-ouest, il évoque un lion couché ; on le compare souvent à la Devils Tower du Wyoming et on le présente comme la plus grande structure phonolitique de ce type en Europe. La colline est une réserve naturelle nationale avec forêt d'éboulis, steppes rocheuses, affleurements et champs de blocs, traversée par un sentier pédagogique jusqu'au sommet et à son panorama.

Le Bořeň est l'une des montagnes d'escalade légendaires de Tchéquie – on grimpe sur des piliers et parois de phonolite, surtout en traditionnel. Les voies sont décrites dans un topo de Stanislav Emingr et Ladislav Vörös. S'agissant d'une réserve naturelle nationale, l'escalade suit les conditions de protection de la nature – vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme. Le centre d'information de Bílina renseigne sur les environs.

Faisant partie de Bohême du Nord-Ouest, Bořeň possède 470 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 11. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Règles

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles des commissions locales s'appliquent. Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé, ne pas modifier les prises.

5
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
The route starts to the right of the center of the valley wall. Up a shallow corner… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
?
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
From the balcony, right through a corner. Higher up the wall to the top. Small north… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
?
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
From the balcony, left to the edge and up it to the summit of Ostrá věžička (Sharp Turret… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
Up the wall to the left of "Dvouletá" (Two-Year-Old) (bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
6-
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
To the right, Ostrá věžička (Sharp Turret) forms a prominent corner. Up this over 3… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
Up the wall to the left, about 5 m from "Čihula's Route". Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
5
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
Through a crack in the fall line of the Ostrá věžička (Sharp Turret) summit, over an… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
Completely from the left side of Ostrá věžička (Sharp Turret), rock gullies descend from… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6-
Severní pilíř
Via the crack to the right of the "Old Route" to the ridge. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6-
Severní pilíř
Via the left crack to the ridge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
6
Severní pilíř
Via a sometimes winding crack, extending in the pillar wall, left of the corner of the … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní pilíř
In memory of P. Mišta and Z. Vobořil † Malý Kolový štít. Start right of the twin crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní komín
Rock bowls in the left wall of the chimney under the overhang. Over the overhang to a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní komín
The start is about 5 meters before the mouth of the north chimney (right). Up a crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní pilíř
Up the conspicuous wide crack, roughly to the right of the left wall of the pillar, to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní pilíř
Approximately halfway along the "Teplice Route", do not continue straight, but slightly… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
4
Stěnový pilíř
Through the chimney over an overhang to easy terrain. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Stěnový pilíř
At the left corner of the North Chimney ("crampon"). Traverse higher to the left onto the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Stěnový pilíř
After traversing right back into the smooth wall (rock and bolt just below a thin crack).… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Stěnový pilíř
From the balcony under the overhang, traverse left to the edge, along it to the crack and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Stěnový pilíř
Vl. from N 'Radova plotny' corners and slabs to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Stěnový pilíř
N approx. 15 m below the base of the pillar via slabs and grass. Further: 1a) Up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Kozí (JV) pilíře
At the very end of the wall by a crack to the platform (group). By a chimney corner… Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Kozí (JV) pilíře
N is from the other (right) side of the small pillar. By corner crack to the platform and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
By a chimney crack (behind the tree) to the platform, upwards right or vertically. Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Along the pillar (group, rivet), then over the pulpit, or vertically. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
By a double crack upwards on the wall (group) to its end. Then by a left crack (wedge) to… Rock Climbing Route on sun
7-
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Up the pillar to the left of the 'Májové' corner along a fine crack over rock and bolt to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
By chimney in the left side wall of the pillar to its top. Then by a wall as 'Sunday'. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4+
Kozí (JV) pilíře
A crack runs to the left of the prominent corner. Up it to the sloping platform and over… Rock Climbing Route on sun

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