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Grimper à Bořeň

470 voies
4 domaines
1–11 notes

Le Bořeň (539 m) est une colline de phonolite à environ 2 km au sud de Bílina, au bord nord-ouest des monts de Bohême centrale, au-dessus de la route de Most à Bílina. Vu du nord-ouest, il évoque un lion couché ; on le compare souvent à la Devils Tower du Wyoming et on le présente comme la plus grande structure phonolitique de ce type en Europe. La colline est une réserve naturelle nationale avec forêt d'éboulis, steppes rocheuses, affleurements et champs de blocs, traversée par un sentier pédagogique jusqu'au sommet et à son panorama.

Le Bořeň est l'une des montagnes d'escalade légendaires de Tchéquie – on grimpe sur des piliers et parois de phonolite, surtout en traditionnel. Les voies sont décrites dans un topo de Stanislav Emingr et Ladislav Vörös. S'agissant d'une réserve naturelle nationale, l'escalade suit les conditions de protection de la nature – vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme. Le centre d'information de Bílina renseigne sur les environs.

Faisant partie de Bohême du Nord-Ouest, Bořeň possède 470 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 11. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Règles

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles des commissions locales s'appliquent. Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé, ne pas modifier les prises.

4
Východní hřebenovka
Access from the right side of the ridge about 10 meters above its lowest point, below a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
6
Východní stěna
Via a crack, later a fissure in the wall, to the right of the chimney-like crack. Rock Climbing
6
Východní stěna
Below 'Děčínský odkaz' through a crack in the slab, which curves to the right in the… Rock Climbing
5-
Východní stěna
N is through the corner below 'Děčínský odkaz'. Through it to a small platform behind the… Rock Climbing
5
Východní stěna
Along the slanted platforms to a place where a roughly 35 m high crack is visible on the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Východní stěna
The start (N) is from where the rocks extend deepest into the forest. Via several… Rock Climbing
4
Východní stěna
Through the corner in the lower part of the wall to a wide ledge. From there, via the … Rock Climbing
4
Východní stěna
Below the overhang, the start of the corner is like 'Dirty'. From there, however, a long…
5
Východní stěna
Into the corner and over the lower overhang. N like 'Dirty'. However, we don't continue…
5+
Východní stěna
Over steps below the left rock couloirs (bounding the 'Memories of Venca' pillar on the… Rock Climbing
5+
Východní stěna
The route leads in the upper part through a crack in the pillar that is between both rock… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Východní stěna
Some meters like 'Necky'. Then traverse (T) right to the pillar. Through the shallow… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
5-
Východní stěna
The start (N) is some meters to the right of 'Necek'. Through the corner over 2 rocks to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7
Východní stěna
To the rock like 'Snake Corner'. Then traverse (T) right to the pillar towards the bolt… Rock Climbing
5-
Východní stěna
Over the overhang on the left side. Rock Climbing
6
Východní stěna
Through a distinct, in places overhanging corner, which defines the 'zl' (likely… Rock Climbing
5+
Východní stěna
Through the vertical corner to the right of 'Crown'. In the upper part, follow the wide… Rock Climbing
6-
Východní stěna
Left of the 'Crown' overhang, there's an indentation ending in a sloping slab at the… Rock Climbing
5
Východní stěna
In the very left (E) part of the wall, there is a prominent small pillar. Up it, over the… Rock Climbing
4
Biskupská stolice - sever
Via the "Sunday" route to the first small platform (bolt). 2 m straight through the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Biskupská stolice - sever
To the right of the N route "Sunday", via a crack over the rock and 2 bolts to the shelf… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Biskupská stolice - sever
Via the crack on the edge of the (S) and (Z) walls to its end. Then to the ridge and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
6+
Biskupská stolice - sever
A few meters on the "Pope's Route". Further up the wall to the left onto a detached block… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4
Biskupská stolice - sever
Through the corner depression from the right side of the small tower under the overhang… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
From the first stance of "Středová" (Central) T down into the valley wall and further up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
Along the (NW) edge, later up the wall to a ledge (3 bolts). The top is brittle. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
Up the chimney, later to the right and up the pillar wall to the top of the small tower. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
Up the crack-chimney, which separates the small tower on its left side, over the wedged… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
In the lower part (E) of the wall, there is a vertical crack in the smooth wall. Up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
A prominent depression extends across the central wall. Approach here via grassy steps… Rock Climbing Route in shadow

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