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Climbing at 22. Loubí

142 routes
25 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Loubí is the southernmost sector of the right bank of the Elbe Valley, with more than 140 routes on 25 towers and walls – for example Terč u Labské stráže, Maturitní stěna, Věž Loubské rokle, Kvádrberk, Vzkříšená stěna and Nosatec. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 22. Loubí has 142 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 25 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Sport Climbing.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.78253, 14.22759

8+/9-
Kvádrberk
In the right part of the former quarry, lightly onto the fore-summit and up the SW… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Kvádrberk
Up the prominent edge of the central wall over 6 BH to the rappel ring below the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Kvádrberk
Up the wall to the left of "Friends' Edge" directly over 7 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Kvádrberk
To the 3rd BH of "Friends' Edge" and right through a crack (3 BH) and left to the shared… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kvádrberk
Up the sharp edge to the left of the route "Skalpel" (Scalpel) to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
6
Kvádrberk
Up the wall of the 1st Corner, higher up through a crack diagonally right to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kvádrberk
Up the first prominent edge of the massif near the pile of stones after remediation… Rock Climbing Overhang
4-
Leopoldův kámen
To the right in the valley wall, through a break into the chimney and up it to the saddle… Rock Climbing
4-
Kolbiště
To the left of the Góóóól route (south face) start from the highest point of the pillar,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
5+
Nosatec
Via the route 'Coleoptera' to the 2nd BH. From there, right into the crack and up it to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Masiv nepodaných rukou
Up the North face into the corner (belay station) and along the crack higher up the edge… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Nosatec
Through the middle of the narrow SW face over the 1st BH to the ledge, then up the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Nosatec
Up the prominent W edge directly over 2 BH to the 3rd BH of the 'Coleoptera' route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Nosatec
Left of the route 'Čínská čtvrt' (Chinatown) directly up the wall over 3 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Nosatec
From the ledge in the left part of the NW face over 2 rings and hourglasses to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Nosatec
Up the wall directly to BH and diagonally left over the ring of the route 'Vyřazovák' to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Nosatec
In the left part of the wall directly over 2 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Nosatec
Left of the route 'Pozdrav ze Skaláku' from the pulpit up the wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Nosatec
From the ledge in the middle of the north face through the corner and higher up the… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Kvádrberk
In the left part of the valley wall of the quarry, up the wall into the corner to the BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Císařská promenáda
On the valley edge, up the wall obliquely left into holes, directly up the wall into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Terč u Labské stráže
In the North wall, 2nd fore-rock along the right edge and along the Three Jumps route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Terč u Labské stráže
In the East wall, 2nd fore-rock up an open crack to the summit (kinderkopfs) and freely… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Terč u Labské stráže
Through the middle of the S face of the 1st fore-summit to the top of the fore-summit and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Terč u Labské stráže
In the North wall, 2nd fore-rock to the left of the Edge, up the wall over iron… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Císařská promenáda
To the left of "Sissi", up the overhanging crack and pillar to the end. Diagonally right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Kvádrberk
To the left of the route "Arnold's School" up the iron-stained wall (BH) and edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Terč u Labské stráže
From the viewpoint, descend three easy steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Terč u Labské stráže
From the West, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Terč u Labské stráže
To the right in the valley wall, along cracks diagonally right to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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