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Climbing at 22. Loubí

142 routes
25 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Loubí is the southernmost sector of the right bank of the Elbe Valley, with more than 140 routes on 25 towers and walls – for example Terč u Labské stráže, Maturitní stěna, Věž Loubské rokle, Kvádrberk, Vzkříšená stěna and Nosatec. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 22. Loubí has 142 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 25 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Sport Climbing.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.78253, 14.22759

4+
Terč u Labské stráže
In the middle of the North wall, 2nd fore-rock over an overhang and over concretions, up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Terč u Labské stráže
From the West, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Terč u Labské stráže
Over the overhang, higher along the edge to the ring and further along the "Poetry Seeker… Rock Climbing
4+
Terč u Labské stráže
To the left of the Victory route along disturbances and higher left to the edge and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Terč u Labské stráže
Along the second crack to the left of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Terč u Labské stráže
Along the first crack to the left of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Labská vyhlídka
To the right of the Kvádradberg corner, up a crack in the pillar to the ledge (ring). Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Terč u Labské stráže
From the large terrace in the middle to another terrace (large hourglass) and along a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Terč u Labské stráže
To the left of the route "Poetry Watcher", through the middle of the wall (hourglass)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Labská vyhlídka
In the left part of the wall, up a prominent corner to the summit (abseil). Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Terč u Labské stráže
Along the South edge (to the right of the chimney), higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Terč u Labské stráže
From the start of the Poetry Seeker route directly up the wall over K to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
5+
Terč u Labské stráže
Along the left valley edge, a ring and hourglass to a large balcony. As per the route … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Terč u Labské stráže
Start from the upper balcony (to the left of the Poetry Seeker route) along the edge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Leopoldův kámen
From the East gully to the saddle (can also be descended from the massif) and up the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Leopoldův kámen
From the E, via a crack to the terrace and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Leopoldův kámen
From the shelf in the left part of the valley wall, up the wall to the ring and further… Rock Climbing
7
Leopoldův kámen
From the shelf in the left part of the valley wall over a large overhang (loop) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Trpasličí pilíř
Up the slab wall over 2 rings and hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Leopoldův kámen
To the right in the East wall, traverse right into the valley wall to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Leopoldův kámen
Through the middle of the NW wall over an overhang and a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Věž Loubské rokle
To the left of the route "Open Window" to the ledge and up the overhanging wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Věž Loubské rokle
In the SE wall, via an overhanging crack to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Věž Loubské rokle
To the left of the carved niche, up the overhanging wall (K), higher up the blunt edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Věž Loubské rokle
To the right of the valley crack, over the overhang (ring), higher up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Věž Loubské rokle
3m to the left of the "Valley Crack", directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž Loubské rokle
Via the West edge to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž Loubské rokle
To the right in the valley wall, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Věž Loubské rokle
Start from the valley, briefly up the corner and right to the valley edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Věž Loubské rokle
From the block on the plateau side, a step-over, then up the wall and through the gully… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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