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Climbing at 22. Loubí

142 routes
25 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Loubí is the southernmost sector of the right bank of the Elbe Valley, with more than 140 routes on 25 towers and walls – for example Terč u Labské stráže, Maturitní stěna, Věž Loubské rokle, Kvádrberk, Vzkříšená stěna and Nosatec. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 22. Loubí has 142 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 25 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Sport Climbing.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.78253, 14.22759

3
Kolbiště
To the left of the Nestůj v koutě (Don't Stand in the Corner) route (start from the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Kolbiště
Along the right S edge up the wall (or edge) to the BH and directly over the rock knobs… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Tool
Through the middle of the SW smooth slab over a hole (sling anchor/protection) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Tool
Along the southern edge over a BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Tool
In the left part of the wall by a corner over a BH (bolt hanger) to the rappel BH (bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Maturitní stěna
To the right in the north wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Maturitní stěna
To the left in the N wall by a notch to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Maturitní stěna
To the right in the N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Potítko
Along the western wall along cracks slightly to the right over 4 bolt hangers to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Maturitní stěna
To the left of Krásná stěnka (Beautiful Wall) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Maturitní stěna
Through the chimney between the boulder and the summit block, climb onto the boulder and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Maturitní stěna
Up the wall, higher along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Maturitní stěna
In the middle of the N wall by a notch over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Maturitní stěna
To the right of 'Question Depression' along the notches, by opposition and edge over 2… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Maturitní stěna
In the south wall to the left of "Iron Wall" up the wall along the edge, higher by the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Maturitní stěna
In the SW wall, by a crack (ring) and wall (2x hour-glass formations) to a ledge (hour… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Maturitní stěna
To the right in the South wall, up the iron-stained wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Maturitní stěna
Approximately through the center of the S wall, up the iron-stained wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Maturitní stěna
From the W terrace, right to the notch and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Maturitní stěna
As 'Path above the valley' to the notch and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Maturitní stěna
Up the valley edge via a ring and hour-glass formations to a bolt, then directly up an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Maturitní stěna
Up a prominent corner in the valley wall for 5m, then diagonally right on the wall (hour… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hasičárna
To the right of "Fifty-Somethings' Corner" up the wall over a bolt to the rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Maturitní stěna
In the left part of the SW wall, by a crack to the edge to the 1st ring of the 'Last Bell… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hasičárna
Up the pillar wall via a ring and hour-glass formation to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hasičárna
In the left part of the W couloir, up the iron-stained wall over an overhang to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Maturitní stěna
To the left of the 'Last Bell' route, up the wall along the edge to the pulpit, then by a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hasičárna
In the right part of the W couloir, to the right by a rib to a ledge and up a sloping… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hasičárna
In the right part of the S wall, directly to the summit via a bolt. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hasičárna
From the W by a corner (rappelling point) and up the wall to the summit for rappelling. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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