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Climbing at 22. Loubí

142 routes
25 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Loubí is the southernmost sector of the right bank of the Elbe Valley, with more than 140 routes on 25 towers and walls – for example Terč u Labské stráže, Maturitní stěna, Věž Loubské rokle, Kvádrberk, Vzkříšená stěna and Nosatec. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 22. Loubí has 142 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 25 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Sport Climbing.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.78253, 14.22759

4-
Malá loubská stěna
From the left, along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Malá loubská stěna
To the left of 'Sigh of Salvation', up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hasičárna
In the left part of the S wall over the ring, higher along the edge over solution pockets… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vlastenec
Along the slabby left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vlastenec
By a prominent corner in the middle of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Vlastenec
Via the overhanging right valley edge (rappelling bolt). Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Malá loubská stěna
Up the center of the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Baloun
Up the SE face over ledges to the summit. (red) Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Baloun
Overhang along the crack directly into the NW face and via that to the summit. (orange) Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Orlí pilíř
In the SW pillar via a crack to the pulpit and further up the wall along cracks to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Orlí pilíř
Right of the route 'Tanec slunce' (Dance of the Sun) up the wall over 2 BH and rappel to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Dvouhlavá stěna
From the lowest point up the wall through a hole and along the indentation to a shelf,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Orlí pilíř
Through the middle of the W face, higher up along the crack to the summit. (rappel) Rock Climbing
5
Baloun
Overhang to the S edge and via it over large tafoni/honeycombs to the summit. (rappel) … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Baloun
From the left to the NW edge and up the wall along it (hourglass) to the summit. (green) Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Knihovna
Through the middle of the W face over 2BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Knihovna
Via the route 'Braková lit...' to the 1st BH. From there right to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Knihovna
In the left part of the S face along cracks, later up the wall near the edge and finally… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Giblink
Up the strongly overhanging wall over BH to the summit. (rappel) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Giblink
Along the right edge diagonally left, hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dvouhlavá stěna
In the right part of the S face up the wall and through a crack (SM) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dvouhlavá stěna
Left of the route 'Jižní trhlina' (South Crack) up the wall (from the small pine tree)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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