Loubí is the southernmost sector of the right bank of the Elbe Valley, with more than 140 routes on 25 towers and walls – for example Terč u Labské stráže, Maturitní stěna, Věž Loubské rokle, Kvádrberk, Vzkříšená stěna and Nosatec. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2 to 9/9+.
Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 22. Loubí has 142 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 25 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Sport Climbing.
Rules
- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021
Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park
- Climb in daylight only.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- Jumps between towers are not allowed.
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Terč u Labské stráže Maturitní stěna Věž Loubské rokle Kvádrberk Vzkříšená stěna Nosatec Kolbiště Cvičná stěna Leopoldův kámen Hasičárna Baloun Vlastenec Orlí pilíř Knihovna Tool Dvouhlavá stěna Malá loubská stěna Dračí pilíř Císařská promenáda Labská vyhlídka Giblink Kumpoltická stěna Potítko Masiv nepodaných rukou Trpasličí pilíř
6-
Správná volba
To the left of the route "Courage" up the wall over a ring to the overhang (hourglass,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Technika
Along the right edge of the massif over 2 rings (2 hourglasses) to the balcony. Further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Stimulátor radosti
Along the interrupted crack in the middle of the wall, over the overhang (ring and sling)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Stará cesta
From the block on the plateau side, a step-over, then up the wall and through the gully… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Endorfinová varianta (Síla a motivace)
From the 2nd K of the route "Power of Motivation" directly up the slab wall to the ledge. Rock Climbing
5+
Odvaha
About 4 m to the left of the right edge of the massif, up the corner, higher through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Krátké ale krásné
In the S wall through a crack and up the wall to the summit (n.v. - possibly 'na vrchol'… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rolnická spára
In the middle of the W wall, diagonally right along a receding notch to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
6-
Test trpělivosti
To the left of the route "Blessing from Heaven" up the wall along a blunt edge, a ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Štěkot vyděšeného psa
To the left in the W wall, via a sloping slab slightly from the left over BH directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Požehnání z nebes
To the left of the overhang, up the wall to the hourglass and diagonally right (K).… Rock Climbing
6
Síla a motivace
To the right of the route "Blessing from Heaven" up the wall to the overhang (hourglass,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Druhá míza
To the right of the route 'Style Change' up the wall (K), higher along the edge (point +… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Centrální komín
To the left of the Prolog route up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Doušek kávy
To the left of the Central Chimney (III.) up the wall over 2 rings to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Prolog
To the left of the valley edge up the wall over hourglasses to the balcony to K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Soudný den
To the right of the Smrt z vyděšení (Death by Fright) route diagonally right along the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Změna stylu
From the terrace in the middle of the S wall, up the wall and through a falcon-like crack… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Druhý život
To the left of the Prolog route up the wall along the rounded edge to the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Smrt z vyděšení
Up the wall 2m to the right of the valley edge to the ledge and to the 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Deštivá cesta
Through cracks and corners in the left part of the SW wall to the ledge (K). Up the wall… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Magic wand
In the right part of the south wall to the balcony up the wall over 2 rings to the rappel… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Knockout
Through the middle of the right part of the S wall over 2 BHs, higher slightly from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Brána vítězů
Along the right edge (K), higher up the wall to the 2nd ring and slightly diagonally… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Góóól
In the left part of the S wall along the crack to the arch, below it traverse right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Přímý kop
Up the iron-rich wall (BH) directly to the ring of the Góóóól route and together with it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Výkop
In the right part of the massif by a corner and along the E edge over the rock knobs to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Krůček stranou
In the middle of the valley pillar up the wall, higher by a corner to the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zlověstné krákání
Up the wall along the right edge of the pillar (hourglasses) to the corner and through it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Ohnivé bubliny
From the ring of the Krůček stranou route (Step Aside) up the overhanging wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay