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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Ďábelský červ
From the NE from the gorge via the left crack and chimney to the pillar. Building and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Velebníček
Left of "All Souls'" via a corner crack to the ring. Via a crack and chimney to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Velebníček
SE via a chimney to the pillar, left via a crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Velebníček
The ascent is below the west corner of the tower. With considerable building to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Velebníček
Rock Climbing
3
Ratejna
In the left part of the SE wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ratejna
Left of the Skinny Hands route via a chimney and crack to the ring. Building and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Ratejna
In the left part of the NE wall via a crack and chimney to the balcony. Building and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ratejna
From the SE via a chimney, a system of cracks and a wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Ratejna
Ascent via the NE wall along the tufas to the 1st ring, then via a gully and crack over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ratejna
From the inner space in the NE wall via a conical chimney and crack (ring) to the end.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Ratejna
From the ring directly via a crack over the overhang. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Ratejna
From the arch in the right part of the NE wall via an overhanging chimney to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Ratejna
The ascent is on the NE side of the tower. Left of the entrance to the inner space … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Ratejna
Rock Climbing
2
Ratejna
Left of the south corner via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Ratejna
Right of the north corner of the tower via a gully and pedestal (1st ring) into a hole.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ratejna
Rock Climbing
6
Ratejna
Left of the northern corner, via a crack and wall to the ring, building from a seat and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Ratejna
In the right part of the NW wall via a pedestal and crack to a small platform. Right via… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Kněz
From SE via a gully right to the pillar, via a crack to the pre-summit and via the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kněz
From S via an overgrown gully to a ledge on the E wall. From the left edge of the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ratejna
Rock Climbing
6
Kněz
From NW via a system of cracks and a chimney to the pillar. Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Kněz
Rock Climbing
5+
Kněz
In the right part of the valley (SW) wall by building to the crack and then to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kněz
From SE via a chimney, higher up a corner crack to the pillar (building) and wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kněz
Follow the South Crack route to the 'clock' and in the holes traverse left above the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Gambrinus
From S via a chimney and right via another chimney to the pillar. Following the Murky… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Gambrinus
Left in the valley wall via a corner crack and chimney to the pillar, then traverse to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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