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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Lesník
In the corner at the eastern edge, via a crack over the overhang to the 1st ring. Via a… Rock Climbing
6
Lesník
From the balcony of the Upper Route, to the right via the wall along the fissures to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Podhoubí
From the south, via a chimney to the pillar and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2
Podhoubí
Via the upper (NW) chimney to the pillars and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Setmělík
As the original (route) to the plateau, then left along it and via a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Setmělík
From the SE, via a crack in the corner to the plateau. Via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Malá starostová
From the SW, via a chimney and over blocks to the pillar. With significant aiding and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Malá starostová
Start via the route "Stavěcí - i.e., with significant aiding" to the ledge. Traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Citrónová
From the upper side, by aiding to the ledge, then diagonally right along it and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Citrónová
Via the right part of the upper wall and from the right along the block to a small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mecháček
Along the upper edge to the pillar and from the overhang by aiding to the ring. Aiding… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Citrónová
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Citrónová
Through the middle of the upper wall (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Helma
At the western edge, via a small crack to its end, right along the wall and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Blembák
Via Saxon body stacking technique at the right edge of the 1st Q, traverse left in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Blembák
Via the chimney between Přilba (Helmet) and Blembak into the crack and via it to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Blembák
Via a variant of the 'Long' route to Přilba (Helmet) to the platform. Left via the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Nick
Up the wall along the left plateau edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Batyskaf
Via the chimney of the 'World of Silence' route (at the eastern edge of the tower) for… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Batyskaf
Between Batyskaf and Přilba (Helmet), via the chimney, higher up by stemming to the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Baronesa
From the rim/edge, by a jump to the balcony and then left via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Leslie
From the SW, via the left chimney to the saddle and further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Leslie
Via the right SW crack to the pre-summit and further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Leslie
Via the chimney from the N. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Klakvakrakve
From the corner on the SE side of the tower, via a crawl into the chimney and up it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Klakvakrakve
Start as for 'Vnitřní' (Inner). Directly via the chimney and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4-
Leslie
Overhang from Klakvakrakve and shortly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Klakvakrakve
From the SW, via the corner crack into the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Klakvakrakve
On the left on the NW side of the tower, via a dihedral, then a crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ringo
Via the valley crack to the ledge and then via the Friendly Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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