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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Kabrňáček
Up the NE chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kabrňáček
Up the valley (SW) crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Balvánek
To the right of the Short Path, up the SE wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Poklička
From the S, up the small gully and then the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Karakorum
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Poklička
Up the center of the SE wall (ring) and then left up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Balvánek
From the South ridge, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Poklička
Up the East ridge to the hourglass and then right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Poklička
From the N, up the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Poklička
Up the North ridge (hourglass) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Poklička
Up the wall to the small balcony. Continue up the wall (hourglass, ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Poklička
Up the West ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šálek
To the left of the Old Path directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Poklička
Up the crack to its end, step right, and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hrnek
Up the East ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hrnek
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hrnek
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jiljí
In the right part of the western face at the S edge via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Šálek
Up the SE wall to the balcony and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jiljí
Up the chimney from the W side between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž Hermanna Buhla
Left part of the valley (NE) face to the ledge, left under the crack, along it to the end… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Věž Hermanna Buhla
From the terrace on the valley side (at the eastern edge) along the small crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Věž Hermanna Buhla
From the block on the SW side of the tower traverse the face right to the hourglass … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Věž Hermanna Buhla
From the block left of the route Overhang via the face to the hourglass (anchor point).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jurášek
Along the valley (southern) edge to the 1st and 2nd ring. Right via the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Věž Hermanna Buhla
From the left plateau corner traverse the face left behind the edge to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Matlák
To the right in the N wall directly to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Matlák
Via the left valley (east) ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Hanesák
Via the plateau (northeast) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Sobec
Via the valley wall over the belly (ring) and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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