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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Přeskok
Klášter
From the summit of Novicka, by stepping across to a pine tree and via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Varle
Via the SE wall and a crack (ring - gently hammered into a pine tree) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Varle
Along the left edge of the SW wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Strážce
From the NE via the right crack into a hollow and to the left to the balcony to the pine… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Varle
Via the SW chimney to the fore-summit, over an overhang and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Strážce
From the SE via a system of chimneys to the platform. Via a sloping crack to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Strážce
To the left of the start of the Rousek route, via a chimney to a sloping ramp and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Vrátný
To the right of the Kuplířská route, via a chimney to the saddle. Stepping across to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
7/7+
Vrátný
From the NW via a crack to a block and by aid climbing to the 1st ring. By aid climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Strážce
In the corner on the NW side via a chimney to a large block. Via a double crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7-/7
Vrátný
Via the Kuplířská route to the balcony. Traverse the wall to the left to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Vrátný
From the NW via the wall (2 rings) to the fore-summit and via the "Kuplířská" route to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Vrátný
Via the wall along the blunt western edge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Vrátný
To the left of "Klistr" via a chimney and a crack to the 1st ring. Via a system of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Vrátný
From the SW from the boulder, over an overhang and via the wall to a small crack, along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Pedofil
To the right of the northern edge, by stemming, via the wall (ring) and along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Vrátný
On the northeast side, any way possible to a overgrown platform (ring). By significant… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Velbloud
From the NW by stemming to the ring. Building up from the harness and via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Velbloud
Via the SW wall and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Dunhill
Via the wall along the southern edge to the 1st ring and to the left via the wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Harpagon
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Harpagon
In the upper wall via a crack and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Harpagon
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Valoun
By stemming and via the upper corner between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
5+
Valoun
To the right of the western corner via the wall to a ledge and to the ring. To the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Stožárová
From the inner space below the SW wall via a chimney to the pillar. Through the crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Lesní strašidlo
A short ascent up the wall from the pre-summit (chimneys between the towers lead here). Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Lesní strašidlo
In the NW wall, traverse left to the ledge (1st ring) and up the wall (2nd ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Houbové strašidlo
From the NE via the edge of the middle pillar (ring) to its summit, then arbitrarily to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Houbové strašidlo
Via the NE edge of the main pillar (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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