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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Přeskok
Pletichář
From Petřina Tower, jump to the ledge, short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Pletichář
Wall along the east edge via 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Totem
Valley wall via 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pletichář
Via the Picnic Chimney route to the top and over the overhang to the ring. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pletichář
From the west, via the chimney into the notch, step over to the plateau and via the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pletichář
From the NE, via the chimney into the notch. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ježek
From SE via Sokolík (chimney/arete) to the balcony (ring) and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Schovanka
Up the SE crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Schovanka
NE crack and chimney to the pillar. Wall over a loose boulder to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bobr
Up the valley crack and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rumcajs
Near the south edge, up the chimney and crack to the block. Over the drop and left along… Rock Climbing
4+
Šídlo
Rock Climbing
6
Šídlo
From the NE, follow the corner crack over the overhang to the pillar and up the crack to… Rock Climbing
6
Poustevník
Along the western edge to the 1st ring. Traverse left into the crack and follow it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Bochník
Via cracks and the wall to the southern edge to the 1st ring and along the edge (2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Panic
Up the east wall to the ledge, then via a build-up and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Bochník
Via the small hill. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Poustevník
In the middle of the SE wall, follow the crack into the hole. Then, via the crack and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6-
Strážce cyklostezky
From the NE crack to the overhang (1st ring). Traverse right under the overhang and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
1
Strážce cyklostezky
Along the overgrown plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Věž Otty Černého
Along the valley edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
11
Věž Otty Černého
Through the center of the wall (starting at the right edge) to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Věž Otty Černého
In the gorge between Otto Černý Tower and Skopec via a squeeze chimney and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Věž Otty Černého
Right to the western edge and across the small pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Ovce
Along the 'Dovolenková cesta' (Holiday Route) to a ledge and right up the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Večernice
Along the Old Route to Skopce up to a large platform. Up the wall along the southern edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Ovce
The ascent starts near the north edge. Up the wall under the overhang and traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Ovce
In the left part of the SW wall via a crack to the ring. Traverse the wall left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Večernice
In the middle of the north wall via a crack to its end and right to the large clock. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Skopec
Up the wall to a platform, along it left to a crack and via that to the balcony. Via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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