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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Adršpašská brána
From the NE, along the finger crack (ring) to the edge. Via a narrow crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Adršpašská brána
Northwest crack to the saddle and a slanted small crack in the valley wall to the left to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Adršpašská brána
From the saddle, to the right via a small crack in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
5+
Adršpašská brána
From the gate passage, by opposition and stepping over into the saddle. Then via the Old… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7+/8-
Delikvent
From the sub-peak of Malá Gilotina (Small Guillotine), by stepping over and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Delikvent
From the sub-peak of Malá Gilotina (Small Guillotine), by abseil and up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Rekrut
From the SE, via a slanted crack to the 1st ring. Via the wall (2nd, 3rd, 4th ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Rekrut
Via a crack from the tourist path to the 1st and 2nd rings. Traverse left into the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Gilotina - malá věž
The ascent starts in the corner on the plateau side. Up the wall and crack to the window,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Rekrut
From the NW, via a small pillar and crack to the ledge. Via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Rekrut
Via the upper crack to the balcony. Right via a crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Železná
Via the Old Route to the 1st ring, traverse right to the edge (ring), around it and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Železná
From the upper gorge, via a slanted notch to the 1st ring. Via the wall to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Srpnová
Via the right upper crack and right via the chimney to the pre-summit. Via the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Svatojánek
Via the valley wall (2 rings) to the 3rd ring. By aid climbing from a harness and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Svatojánek
From the inter-tower from the SE wall (ring) and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Poradce
From the SE, via a crack to the 1st ring, left up the wall to the ledge and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Poradce
At the northern corner, via a crack or by wedging against a block and a crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Skluzavka
NE chimney to the platform and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Poradce
From the uphill side, through the chimney to the window. Right via a crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Sklerotnice
Up the center of the valley (SE) wall to the 1st ring. Diagonally right up the wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Sklerotnice
Left of the west corner, up a small chimney to the pillar and then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Sklerotnice
In the NE wall to the left via a crack (1st ring) to the ledge and along it to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Studna
Through a small crack in the south face (2 rings) to the 3rd ring and slightly right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall +1
5+
Sklerotnice
From the gorge on the NW side of the tower, via small cracks and a small fissure to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
6-
Hrbáč
In the middle of the NE wall via a crack and right along the 'sokolík' (small pinnacle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hrbáč
NW crack and right along the edge to the balcony to the 1st ring. Traverse right along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hrbáč
Via a crack and edge to the 1st ring of route "Don't Touch the Ring" (i.e., route "Don't… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Hrbáč
From the blocks on the upper side, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kyborg
From the left edge of the valley wall, right over a ring to the 'hodiny' (hourglass… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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