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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Houslařská
From the W, via the chimney, overhang to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Mechová
Along the edge from Urologická zahrádka over the quartz veins to the ring and left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Mechová
From route "Hammer..." left via the crack (ring) and right to the summit of Babské ucho. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Mechová
Up the valley wall of Babské ucho (ring) to its summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Mechová
In the left part of the valley wall, via a wide section into the wall to the ring, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9+
Mechová
From the stone to the right in the valley wall (carved star) directly over three rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Mechová
From the ring, climbing (building holds) and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Mechová
Up the NW wall to the ring. Climbing (building holds) and to the right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Mechová
To the right of the west edge, by building/stacking and via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Mechová
Via the West Wall route to the ring. Traverse left along the wall to the 2nd ring and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Urologická zahrada
From the W, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Urologická zahrada
From the fore-rock of Mechová, by jumping n.v. (Note: 'n.v.' likely refers to 'na vrchol'… Rock Climbing
5
Mechová
From the SE, from the fore-rock, traverse left along the ledge past the edge to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Čarodějka
Along the right part of the NE wall and crack to the ring. Through the crack and wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Čarodějka
From the NW, via the chimney and crack to the pillar. Step right into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Čarodějná hůlka
Via the Magic Route to the Witch (Čarodějka) onto the pillar. With extensive aid (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Královna
Along the west edge 6 rings into a gully, through it to the ledge (7th ring), through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Královna
In the middle of the NE face via a rib and crack to the ledge, left by transitioning into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8-/8
Královna
Via the route "Studnička's Legacy" to the 4th ring (aid climbing only to the 1st ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Královna
From the block on the upper fore-rock with extensive aid to the 1st ring. With aid from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Černý cikán
Up the upper face and with aid to the ring. With aid from the harness and up the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Šašek
From the valley side (from the NE) via a wide crack or a crack to the 1st ring. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Královna
In the upper face (ring) via a crack and up the face, traverse left to the edge (2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šašek
NW crack to the ring. With aid from the harness, left via a gully to the ledge, along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Šašek
Via the route of the government jesters to the 2nd ring and directly along the edge (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šašek
From the SW via a pillar (sokolík - a small, distinct pillar-like feature, often used for… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Šašek
Left of the upper chimney via a corner (1st ring) and a crack to the 2nd ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Cimbuří
From the NE via a corner crack (1st ring) to the balcony, over the drop (2nd ring) with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Cimbuří
From the cave in the valley NE face (left of the Zvonová cesta) via a chimney under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Cimbuří
From the valley side (right of the cave) via a chimney and crack to the ring. Via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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