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Climbing at Central Bohemian Uplands

1673 routes
41 areas
1–10- grades

The Central Bohemian Uplands (České středohoří) are a volcanic range in northern Bohemia, mostly in the Ústí nad Labem Region, running about 70 km from south-west to north-east and split by the Elbe valley. The rock is largely basalt, with trachyte and some andesite; the highest peak is Milešovka (837 m), and about 84% of the range is protected as the 1,068.9 km² České středohoří PLA. It is a good choice when you want to climb on something other than sandstone.

The largest crags include Ptačí stěny, Výří skály, Tašov, Kašparák – Chotovický vrch and Vrabinec, followed by Skály u Mukařova, Zlatník, Brná and Špičák u Mostu; on the western edge stands the legendary phonolite hill of Bořeň. Besides traditional routes there are some nice sport areas too. Most crags lie in the PLA – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administration.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Central Bohemian Uplands has 1673 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10-. Explore its 41 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The area lies in the Central Bohemian Uplands PLA, with some crags in nature reserves. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

Ptačí stěny 221 routes Výří skály 160 routes Tašov 128 routes Kašparák - Chotovický vrch 98 routes Vrabinec 91 routes Skály u Mukařova 67 routes Kreutzberg 59 routes Zlatník 58 routes Brná 50 routes Mravenec 45 routes Špičák u Mostu 45 routes Malá Veleň 43 routes Kukla. Tašov skalky pod vysílačem 35 routes Mlynářův kámen 35 routes Francká hora - Zvon 35 routes Vaňov 34 routes Milířsko 34 routes Dlouhý vrch 34 routes Studený masiv 34 routes Rač - Hradiště u Habří 32 routes Budov 27 routes Velká Javorská 26 routes Lukov 25 routes Skály nad Babětínem 24 routes Krkavčí skály 22 routes Rytířov 21 routes Česká skála 19 routes Soudný vrch 18 routes Žižkovo údolí v Bílině 18 routes Františkov nad Ploučnicí 18 routes Hetov 16 routes Skála pod Lhotou 16 routes Baba - Wesselstein 15 routes Panna 13 routes Věžičky u Bílého Kostelce 12 routes Skály u Lesné 11 routes Proboštovský dvorec 10 routes Kalich 9 routes Merboltice 7 routes Sokolí hřeben 6 routes Kozí vrch 2 routes
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5
Studený masiv
Through the overhanging corner (2 bh) to the ledge and then up the actual corner to the… Rock Climbing
6
Studený masiv
Through a narrow crack (4 bh) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Studený masiv
Right from the chimney through a crack (3 bh) to the terrace. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
3
Studený masiv
Via the edge (2 bolts) over a balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +2
2
Studený masiv
Up a short chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Sokolí stěna
Left of the route "Leather Face" (around the corner), directly up the wall via 3 bolts to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Sokolí stěna
Left of the route "Sweet Nothings", directly up the wall via 3 bolts to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Sokolí stěna
Left of the route "Full Throttle", directly up the wall via 3 bolts to the rappel anchor.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Sokolí stěna
Left of the route "Esoteric Walk", diagonally left up the wall via 3 bolts to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Sokolí stěna
Left of the route "Take the Crampons", directly up the wall via 2 bolts to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Sokolí stěna
Completely in the right part of the wall, over two overhangs and 3 bolts, to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
1
Baloun
Right on the uphill side by the wall n. v. (to the top). Rock Climbing
4
Baloun
By the blunt valley edge over the small overhang and further to the balcony and small… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
1
Dobrý voják Švejk
By the NW edge to the ledge and left by the wall n. v. (to the top). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Dobrý voják Švejk
By the SE edge n. v. (to the top). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Dobrý voják Švejk
Through the middle of the N wall by the crack n. v. (to the top). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Dobrý voják Švejk
Left of the SW edge by the crack to the ledge and by the edge n. v. (to the top). Rock Climbing Route on sun
3+
Dobrý voják Švejk
1.5 m left of the route "War is only for rich people" by the wall to the ledge. Rock Climbing
3
Křídlo u Slukové
Start via the chimney of the Hair-bell route. Further along the SE edge (secured at 1/2)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Křídlo u Slukové
5 m right of the "Hair-bell" route via the chimney to the balcony and 3 m left of the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Křídlo u Slukové
3 m left of the "Daisy" route directly up the wall (2 bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2
Křídlo u Slukové
Right edge (2 bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3+
Křídlo u Slukové
2 m left of the "Common Yarrow" route directly up the wall (2 bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2
Křídlo u Slukové
5 m right of the "Buttercup" route along the right edge of the pillar to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
3+
Křídlo u Slukové
2 m right of the "Buttercup" route up the wall directly to the 2nd bolt of the "Buttercup… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
2
Křídlo u Slukové
3 m right of the "Daisy" route directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
5
Vzkříšení
Crack from SE and further over the overhang (bolt) and further along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vzkříšení
In the middle of the wall directly into the crack and up that to the top. Sport Climbing
3
Vzkříšení
Sport Climbing
8
Vzkříšení
In the left part of the wall over the overhang and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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