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Climbing at Central Bohemian Uplands

1673 routes
41 areas
1–10- grades

The Central Bohemian Uplands (České středohoří) are a volcanic range in northern Bohemia, mostly in the Ústí nad Labem Region, running about 70 km from south-west to north-east and split by the Elbe valley. The rock is largely basalt, with trachyte and some andesite; the highest peak is Milešovka (837 m), and about 84% of the range is protected as the 1,068.9 km² České středohoří PLA. It is a good choice when you want to climb on something other than sandstone.

The largest crags include Ptačí stěny, Výří skály, Tašov, Kašparák – Chotovický vrch and Vrabinec, followed by Skály u Mukařova, Zlatník, Brná and Špičák u Mostu; on the western edge stands the legendary phonolite hill of Bořeň. Besides traditional routes there are some nice sport areas too. Most crags lie in the PLA – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administration.

Part of North-West Bohemia, Central Bohemian Uplands has 1673 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10-. Explore its 41 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The area lies in the Central Bohemian Uplands PLA, with some crags in nature reserves. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

Ptačí stěny 221 routes Výří skály 160 routes Tašov 128 routes Kašparák - Chotovický vrch 98 routes Vrabinec 91 routes Skály u Mukařova 67 routes Kreutzberg 59 routes Zlatník 58 routes Brná 50 routes Mravenec 45 routes Špičák u Mostu 45 routes Malá Veleň 43 routes Kukla. Tašov skalky pod vysílačem 35 routes Mlynářův kámen 35 routes Francká hora - Zvon 35 routes Vaňov 34 routes Milířsko 34 routes Dlouhý vrch 34 routes Studený masiv 34 routes Rač - Hradiště u Habří 32 routes Budov 27 routes Velká Javorská 26 routes Lukov 25 routes Skály nad Babětínem 24 routes Krkavčí skály 22 routes Rytířov 21 routes Česká skála 19 routes Soudný vrch 18 routes Žižkovo údolí v Bílině 18 routes Františkov nad Ploučnicí 18 routes Hetov 16 routes Skála pod Lhotou 16 routes Baba - Wesselstein 15 routes Panna 13 routes Věžičky u Bílého Kostelce 12 routes Skály u Lesné 11 routes Proboštovský dvorec 10 routes Kalich 9 routes Merboltice 7 routes Sokolí hřeben 6 routes Kozí vrch 2 routes
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4
Sarkofág
Through the middle of the shingle-layered valley wall along a crack (bh) to a ledge (bh),… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
Přeskok
Sarkofág
From the belay bolt on the Sphinx, traverse to the Sarcophagus. Rock Climbing
3
Sarkofág
From the gap between the Sarcophagus and the Sphinx into the corner and by that n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5+
Pavéza
Through the middle of the "pavéza" (bh) and right to the edge and along the Ťapina route… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Ostruha
Through the middle of the S wall along the pedestal n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Ostruha
Right of Viktor the Wall Cleaner by the wall section n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Ostruha
Via a sharp edge to the ledge and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Ostruha
On the S wall via cracks and fissures n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Ostruha
To the left onto the Panenská ridge along a crack running diagonally right n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Ostruha
On the SW wall, start under the overhang, then further n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
10-
Mordor
Boulder route on the valley wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Menhir
Start of the right part of Menhir. Through the left part of the overhang over a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
2
Menhir
Via an overhanging wall from the "bivouac" briefly n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Menhir
Through the corner in the N wall n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Menhir
Via a short overhanging valley wall (bh) n. t. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Menhir
Via the left valley edge n. t. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
1
Malá sfinga
Through the middle of the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Malá sfinga
From the edge into the small chimney and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Malá sfinga
To the left on the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Malá sfinga
Through the wall in the corner at the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Křižník
Up the overhanging valley edge (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5-
Křižník
Left of the chimney, up a short edge (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5-
Krystal
Up the middle of the valley wall to a horizontal crack and over the overhang (bolt) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
2
Krystal
Up the middle of the W wall along a broken crack to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Krystal
From the corner between Vr(c)hcáby and Krystal via an overhanging edge (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Krystal
Up an indistinct edge between the 'Wasp Irritation' and 'Path of Lit Lights' routes and a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Krystal
Along the NE edge over two pinnacles to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6+
Krystal
Left of the 'Autumn Corner' route, directly up the wall via 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Hlava
By a small wall and a small corner freely upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Hlava
By a small edge and a small corner freely upwards. Rock Climbing

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