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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

4
Stěna kotlů - pravá část
To the first belay as per Sun Route, then to the rappel from the right. Rock Climbing
8-
Stěna kotlů - pravá část
Via Sun Route and from the summit book directly to the rappel of the Devil's Debt route. Rock Climbing
6+
Stěna kotlů - pravá část
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7
Stěna kotlů - pravá část
Variant of the Obkročák route start. Rock Climbing
3
Stěna kotlů - pravá část
Completely on the right in Barrandovka couloir. Rock Climbing
8-
Stěna kotlů - pravá část
Rock Climbing
5
Blážina stěna - pravá část
Over the stepped overhangs, via the slab and then along the handholds to a refined exit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
?
Fifounova plotna
Between the path to Samba and Mrchova. Rock Climbing
5+
Blážina stěna - levá část
The first attempt on the route on 21. 7. 1945 ended before the traverse ("... the first… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Blážina stěna - levá část
Start together with Listopadová and Halina routes, then slightly left over 2 rivets and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Blážina stěna - levá část
Up the wall over a piton to the ring. From there left and two meters higher again back… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
9
Blážina stěna - pravá část
From the rappel anchor of the route "Mobilis in mobili" up the overhanging belly via two… Rock Climbing
6+
Blážina stěna - levá část
From the first ring of the "Blážina route" directly up over a step and about 3 meters on… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+
Blážina stěna - levá část
Via the "Blážina route" under the overhang (slings, friend) and through its middle… Rock Climbing
9-
Blážina stěna - levá část
For example, Plato. Rock Climbing
7+
Blážina stěna - levá část
Directly over the rivet and right to the ring. Rock Climbing
6-
Blážina stěna - levá část
Ryšavá 2.DÉLKA" (The Ginger/Reddish Second Pitch), graded 6- (UIAA), is a distinctive and… Rock Climbing
7+
Blážina stěna - levá část
Climbing 'Reschova varianta' (7+) in 'Blážina stěna - levá část' is a true test piece for… Rock Climbing
8+
Blážina stěna - levá část
"Kombinace," graded 8+, stands out as a challenging and highly rewarding climb within the… Rock Climbing
8-
Blážina stěna - levá část
The path leads like a straight line between the roads of Californian rendezvous and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Blážina stěna - levá část
Entry in the hollow in the fall line of the large overhangs between Halina and Vypečená… Rock Climbing
8
Blážina stěna - levá část
Climbing 'Zkratka' (grade 8) in the 'Blážina stěna - levá část' sector is a truly… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Blážina stěna - levá část
Climbing 'Varáha' (7+/8-) at Blážina stěna - levá část is a truly memorable experience.… Rock Climbing
5
Blážina stěna - levá část
Climbing 'Šedý kout horní' (Grade V) in 'Blážina stěna - levá část' 'Šedý kout horní' is… Rock Climbing
5
Blážina stěna - levá část
Odkaz kapitána Nema" (Captain Nemo's Legacy) is a beloved classic climbing route, graded… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-
Blážina stěna - levá část
A. Davis's Route Variant (a ring placed during rappelling) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Blážina stěna - levá část
From the first ring of the route "Time to Plant Chickens" almost directly to its second… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8
Blážina stěna - levá část
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Blážina stěna - levá část
Climbing 'Mufi muf' (grade 5) on Blážina Wall - Left Part is a truly rewarding experience… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Blážina stěna - levá část
Climbing 'Přestavba' (7+) in the 'left part' of Blážina stěna is a quintessential… Rock Climbing

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