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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

5
Blážina stěna - pravá část
Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Blážina stěna - pravá část
Like Helter Skelter under the overhang to the 3rd rivet, here bypassed from the left and… Rock Climbing
7-
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Červené stěny - Vlevo
Through the corner and overgrown crack over two ledges, continuously upwards to the… Rock Climbing
6
Vanový kout
To the left of the Erratic Walk, in a clear corner (straightening crosswise and… Rock Climbing
4
Červené stěny - Vlevo
Rock Climbing
4
Červené stěny - Vlevo
Rock Climbing
3+
Červené stěny - Vlevo
Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Blážina stěna - pravá část
From the last ring of the "Easter route" diagonally left over the ring to the chain of… Rock Climbing
7-
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Čelo
The route leads along the right edge of the pillar called 'Čelo' (Front). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8
Blážina stěna - pravá část
Over the tricky (baked) section and then slightly left over the overhangs. Rock Climbing
7+
Blážina stěna - pravá část
Climbing 'Pěstní souboj' (meaning 'Fistfight' in Czech) at 'Blážina stěna - pravá část' … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
10
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Over three bolts directly with a joyful exit from the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun +1
7-
Čelo
Along the left edge of the pillar front. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
?
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Rock Climbing
4+
Dolce
Start to the left of the adit, diagonally to the right to the left edge of the flake,… Rock Climbing
4
Blážina stěna - pravá část
To the left of "Tragedy's Chance", over the 'spoďáky' (likely a specific climbing feature… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
3-
Dolce
Start to the right of the adit, diagonally to the right along a path in the shape of an… Rock Climbing
7+
Blážina stěna - pravá část
Climbing 'Varianta Tympány,' graded 7+ (UIAA), in 'Blážina stěna - pravá část' is an… Rock Climbing
6+
Dolce
Start to the left of Štola, directly over 3 protections and to the left to the abseil… Rock Climbing
6+
Dolce
Over 3 protections and slightly to the right to the abseil below the edge of the stage. Rock Climbing
4
Stěna kotlů - levá část
To the ramp crossing the entire wall slightly from the left. More or less walk right to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
8-
Stěna kotlů - levá část
Below, overhangs over a piton, then up the Lego pillar (between the small and large… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4+
Colaloca
Well-protected easy route, very nice rock Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Stěna kotlů - levá část
The lower slab is the hardest, and then easily over the ramp to the ring. Rock Climbing
8
Blážina stěna - pravá část
Climbing 'Návrat ke kořenům' (Return to the Roots), a formidable grade 8 route, in … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Colaloca
To the right of the Exkalibur route, over a prominent flake (cam, sling), then over 2… Rock Climbing
7-
Colaloca
Climb slightly from the right, directly over 2 quickdraws and left to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Stěna kotlů - levá část
From the ledge over the ring slightly right to the ledge of Malý kotel (Small Cauldron). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2

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