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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

5
Křížová stěna - střední část
From the 2nd ring in Blues about stability, down into a vertical corner, through which up… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Křížová stěna - střední část
Start right of the previous route. Up a small wall into a friable small corner, past a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Křížová stěna - střední část
Start approximately in the center of the Wall below the cross. Up a shallow corner over a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4
Křížová stěna - střední část
Start from a narrow deep hole at the base of the wall. Diagonally right to a blunt rib,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Křížová stěna - střední část
Over a small overhang from the ledge directly up into a prominent corner, through which… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Křížová stěna - střední část
Approach 5m right of the previous route. Up the slab to the right to a small corner,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Křížová stěna - střední část
Approach just right of the previous route. Up the left, diagonally right-trending corner… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Křížová stěna - střední část
From the 2nd ring of Blues about stability, an indistinct corner to the right of the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Křížová stěna - střední část
Start approx. 4m left of the "April route". Up the wall to a piton left and upwards to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Křížová stěna - střední část
Start together with the Gingerbread route about 8m up, then traverse down the slab (about… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
8
Blážina stěna - pravá část
To the right of Blackman, then via Blackman. Rock Climbing
5
Křížová stěna - střední část
Left of the original start (approx. 4-5m) via a corner crack to its overhanging end.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Křížová stěna - levá část
From the 1st ring, over the upper level of the cave traverse down into an overhanging… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5+
Růžová stěna
Via Cosa nostra and finish directly. Rock Climbing
7+
Křížová stěna - levá část
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Blážina stěna - pravá část
In the lower part of Ocel (Steel) to the ring under the overhang from the right. Rock Climbing
8-
Blážina stěna - pravá část
Along the edge all the way up. Rock Climbing
5
Blážina stěna - pravá část
To the ring below the crack, approximately 6+. The exit via the crack is rarely climbed,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stěny u Kačáku
Up a prominent chimney to the right of the vertical smooth slab via steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Stěny u Kačáku
Up the center of the vertical, smooth slab along the crack to the left of the Chimney… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Stěny u Kačáku
Start at the right edge of the wall to the left of the couloir opposite Kája's Chimney … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Stěny u Kačáku
Start in the left part of the wall across the couloir from No. 62. In a prominent corner,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
7+
Blážina stěna - pravá část
From the 1st bolt traverse right and then carefully to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing
4
Svatojanská kobylka
Up the center of the narrow lower wall around a piton to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Svatojanská kobylka
Directly up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Svatojanská kobylka
Up the center of the overhanging upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Svatojanská kobylka
Start to the right of the right upper wall (about 1 m) and diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Bubovická stěna
In the fall line of the highest point of the wall, a slightly downward crack descends,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Bubovická stěna
Up the corner (gully) on the right side of the wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Červené stěny - Vlevo
Rock Climbing

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