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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

5
Márka
Nice, well-secured route, slightly slippery. Dedicated to one little Michalek. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Márka
Over four belay points for rappelling. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Márka
Directly over two protections to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2
Lezecký park Alkazar
The route is laid out to the left, generously protected with hooks, over steps to a chain… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Centrál
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Federation database. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
11
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Šanův kout - 3. masiv
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
7+/8-
Vlastina stěna
Direct variant of Rakváči. Start from Vlastina, from the first bolt directly to the piton… Rock Climbing
3
Vlastina stěna
Through a wide crack up to a chimney to a distinctive platform with a tree, then directly… Rock Climbing
8-
Vlastina stěna
Climbing 'Velký pivo' (grade 8-) at Vlastina stěna is an iconic experience for any… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Vertical wall
7/7+
Pod vodopádem
Boulder at the start Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Vlastina stěna
Start at the Vlastina route (rivet). The route winds to the right of Úmrtní List, through… Rock Climbing
8+
Zebra
Directly over the overhang, higher traverse right into the Coyote route and follow it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Zebra
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Zebra
Two boulders, easy top-out Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Zebra
Boulder and easy top-out Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zebra
Start shared with the Robbery Bob route, higher up under the overhang traverse right into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Stěna za klášterem
The ascent leads along the left edge of a black longitudinal overhang. Up along an… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Stěna za klášterem
First ascent with protection from the route 'From Below', sling under the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Blážina stěna - pravá část
From ordinary people straight along the edge. Rock Climbing
6
Blážina stěna - pravá část
Completion of I. Novák's older project Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7
Blážina stěna - pravá část
Above Duel to the piton of Mládennecká. Rock Climbing
9+
Blážina stěna - pravá část
On small crimps. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Blážina stěna - pravá část
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Blážina stěna - pravá část
Rock Climbing
4+
Křížová stěna - pravá část
Rock Climbing
4
Křížová stěna - střední část
Approach in the fall line of white-colored slabs in the pre-summit section. Through a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Křížová stěna - střední část
Approach 10m right of the previous route. Up into a slabby corner, through which under an… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Křížová stěna - střední část
Approach about 5m right of Blues about stability. Up the pillar, later along the right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Křížová stěna - střední část
Approach shared with the Kestrel Route up to the 1st ring, from there traverse 2m down… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1

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