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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

6+
Kamarádům za velkou louží
Ascent between Friends and Cyanide, through 2 bh and the police directly through Friends… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Kamarádům za velkou louží
Above the 1st and 2nd BH to the well, then diagonally to the right with an unsecured… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+
Kamarádům za velkou louží
To the right of Kyanid, over a rivet and a left hand undercling, slightly to the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Kamarádům za velkou louží
Logical classical route, in uncleaned rock, longer pitches Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Kamarádům za velkou louží
Nice limestone with friction Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kamarádům za velkou louží
Start as for "Kamarádům..." above to the left. Very nice classic route, great rock. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Kamarádům za velkou louží
Nice path in non-slip rock Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kamarádům za velkou louží
7m to the right of the tunnel, straight to the piton, then diagonally to the right across… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Kamarádům za velkou louží
Nice route in solid limestone. Overhangs can be simplified by climbing more from the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Kamarádům za velkou louží
Straight along the edge of the gallery, across the overhang (rivet), then left into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Kamarádům za velkou louží
On the right edge of the Matterhorn. The route starts on the lower level. On the edge at… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
9-
Camloc
Short bouldering grade 9 to the right of the tree. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Camloc
Shorter nice route on the far right, over 3 protections to the abseil station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Camloc
Ascent like Easy way and straight through the belay up to the rappel of the route In the…
5
Camloc
Up the wall to the right of the edge over steps (3 hangers) to the chain.
5+
Camloc
Brittle route over one piece of protection and to the rappel anchor.
6-
Camloc
Well protected, but today extremely polished route. Climbing "gem".
5
Camloc
Over one belay to the right for rappelling.
6+
Camloc
Over 3 anchors at the summit (chain).
6+
Camloc
Start on the right at the mine entrance, via 3 anchors to the rappel.
5
Camloc
A corner on the left next to the road, The Injection into Darkness, over three rivets to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Camloc
Up the edge over 1 bolt and 1 hanger directly to the rappel anchor.
5
Camloc
Classics are a pillar.
6
Camloc
Over 3 pieces of protection at the top.
6
Camloc
More than 4 protections to the top.
6
Camloc
Start on the left at the mine entrance, with 4 belays to the rappel.
7
Z voleje
Climbing "Černobylská" (grade 7) in "Z voleje" is a unique experience. The route, often…
6-
Camloc
Straight across 3 anchors, then left past an anchor and piton to the rappel.
7-
Camloc

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