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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

4+
Homole (Malý Matterhorn)
Around the adit from the right.
4+
Homole (Malý Matterhorn)
Left path when entering from the advanced adit.
4
Homole (Malý Matterhorn)
To the right of Hare Krishna
5+
Homole (Malý Matterhorn)
Start to the left of the cave. Follow the polished rib to a corner, bypass the overhang…
6+
Homole (Malý Matterhorn)
A gentle slab route with slightly more moral protection. A bolt has been added to the end…
6
Homole (Malý Matterhorn)
To the left of the Sirloin, in the corner on the shelf, and to the left towards the 1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Homole (Malý Matterhorn)
The delicate wall between Balance and Pletanov's resurrection
6+
Homole (Malý Matterhorn)
Start to the left of Balance, with a sloping slab diagonally to the right towards the…
7+/8-
Fifounova plotna
Climbing 'Rock 'n' roll - var. Dupák' (grade 7+/8-) on Fifounova plotna represents a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Fifounova plotna
Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6+
Homole (Malý Matterhorn)
All the way to the left on Homole. After the 1st bolt/belay point, there's a garden (an…
6+
Fifounova plotna
Through the middle of Fifoun's plate, just to the left of Mrcha's path Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Fifounova plotna
Tackling 'Mrchova,' a classic Grade 5 route on the impressive 'Fifounova plotna' (Fifoun… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Fifounova plotna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9+/10-
Fifounova plotna
through the center of the smooth slab Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Fifounova plotna
from the 2nd bolt of the route "Who is the Fairest in the World" by cowardly escaping to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Fifounova plotna
Next to Rokenrolu on the top floor, along the handrails next to the safety line. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Fifounova plotna
The right route to the abseil. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Fifounova plotna
The climb up 'Samba' (4+) on 'Fifounova plotna' is a classic and delightful experience.… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Fifounova plotna
A pillar between two adits for rappelling over 3 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Fifounova plotna
Through the middle to salination. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Fifounova plotna
On the left, for rappelling. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Jettiho hrana
Approach left of the adit. Via the slab and further across a vertical wall with 3 bolts.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Jettiho hrana
Clear line through the center of the right wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Jettiho hrana
Climbing "Záchrana" (grade 3) on "Jettiho Hrana" is a delightful experience. This climb,… Rock Climbing
5
Jettiho hrana
Along the edge of the middle tier via 2 bh to the top.
5
Jettiho hrana
Nice wall to the left of Zlatá to the shared abseil. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Jettiho hrana
From the left, along the edge, over 2 bolts to the rappel, longer runouts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
6+
Jettiho hrana
To the right of the path, drilled, over an overhang and directly to the rappel, wall at… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Jettiho hrana
From the left along Pánská jízda, one belay at the bottom, loose blocks at the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3

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