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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

10-
Růžová stěna
Short, striking route in solid, smooth rock. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Růžová stěna
A short protected route along the ridge, to the right next to the routes Jako za mlada… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Růžová stěna
Along the vertical wall via ledges (4 bolts/bolt hangers) between the routes 'Like in… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Růžová stěna
Climbing 'Ošklivé kačátko' (The Ugly Duckling) with its grade 6 rating on the Růžová… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Růžová stěna
Climbing 'Hnědé nebezpečí' (Brown Danger), a classic Grade 7 route on the impressive… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Růžová stěna
To the right of the clayey corner to the 1st ring, diagonally to the left across the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Růžová stěna
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6-
Růžová stěna
Climbing 'Bum do hlavy' (grade 6-) at Růžová stěna is a quintessential experience for any… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Růžová stěna
Climbing 'Cosa Nostra' (grade 5+) on Růžová stěna is a classic experience for climbers in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Růžová stěna
Rock Climbing
6+
Růžová stěna
Climbing 'Růžový koutek' (Pink Corner), a classic 6+ route on 'Růžová stěna' (Pink Wall),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Růžová stěna
Climbing "Hrr na hranku," graded 7+ (or VII+ UIAA), on the magnificent Růžová stěna (Rose… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Růžová stěna
A nice route along the left edge, up the steps (5 bh) to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5-
Růžová stěna
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vanový kout
Short route completely to the right. Over 3 bolts to the maillon. To the 1st bolt like … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Vanový kout
In the right part of the wall, between the routes Rozházené Poličky and Sebrané Smetí,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vanový kout
3rd route from the right. The last bolt and belay station are shared with the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vanový kout
Easier alternative to the route "Peřinka" 6+. Common start with "Rozházené poličky" and … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Vanový kout
2nd route from the right, to the 1st bolt like Gimli, then slightly to the left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Vanový kout
To the 1st bolt together with the route "Rozházené poličky", from there to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9-
Vanový kout
With a smooth entry wall, then it's easy. Significantly harder for shorter individuals.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Vanový kout
To the right of the smooth wall of the route Houbičky. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Vanový kout
Approach via the first two bolts (BH) of Klepáčka, then right past a bolt (BH) to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vanový kout
To the left of the route Křemílek, to which it joins at its 5th bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vanový kout
The most prominent route of the sub-sector to the right of Černý dům (access from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9-
Vanový kout
Access via the 'Bathtub Corner' route (3 bolts/pitches, then left along a smooth wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Vanový kout
Up a nice starting wall, then an overhanging wall and traverse right using handholds,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-
Vanový kout
To the left of the Napřímené Rovno route, across four bolts (bh), and to the right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Vanový kout
Start to the right of the right adit, over two protections to a rappel point under an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Vanový kout
The second route from the left. Up a sloping corner like Krásný nohy (Beautiful legs).… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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