Skip to content
Offline You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
Back to list

Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

7+
Petr Bok
In the right part of the wall Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Petr Bok
Bottom left, at the 3rd bh from the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Šuplíkárna
Slab from the left under the overhang to the bolt, across the overhang (2nd bolt) and to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Šuplíkárna
Up the slab from the left under the overhang (bh) and over the overhang to the 2nd bh.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Šuplíkárna
Right of "Bimbo", up the overhanging wall via the good holds ("jugs"), past 4 bolts to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Extrém
From rappel station c. Bimbo, further up the wall and over the overhang to the 2nd rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Extrém
To the right of Jumbo across 3 bolts to the belay station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Extrém
To the right of "kulatin" (anniversary) across two bolts to the belay station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Extrém
Start with "Zrození hvězd" (Birth of Stars), from the 1st bolt further to the right into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Extrém
Directly across two bolts to the belay station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Extrém
From the start of "Baťka's Route", along the edge of the overhang to the right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Extrém
Start 'Yes, tastes good', along the edge of the ceiling to the left, and the end 'Birth… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Coupé
Over the overhang and up the steps into the cave, traverse left to the bolt and further… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
Coupé
Through the corner under the roof. Anal affair (overall recommended) in the roof to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Coupé
From the left wall of the small cave, with a difficult move into the 'drawer' (a specific… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Coupé
Through the right wall of the small cave and across the overhangs to the belay station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Coupé
To the right of the small cave across three bolts to the belay station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Jižní hrana
Up the wall to the right of the edge, diagonally left to the edge. Through an overhanging… Rock Climbing
6
Jižní hrana
By a solid, sloping wall/slab to the right of Sokolík via 3 bolts, directly and to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Jelínkův most
By a crumbling corner, approximately halfway up the wall to a small platform (book). Via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Kavčí lom
Start to the right of Dech pekla (it's appropriate to clip its first bolt). Along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Kavčí lom
The route is to the right of The Tornado (chimney). Up the wall and the edge. Towards the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Kavčí lom
Technically on small holds, on a gently sloping slab. Dryness is a necessity. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +1
9-
Kavčí lom
Around the left edge of Tornado (chimney). A route without a weak spot. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Kavčí lom
Approach to the right of Wild Card along the edge, and then right along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Kavčí lom
A prominent edge in the right part of the wall to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Kavčí lom
To the left of the route Oko bere, up the wall diagonally to the left to the first one,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Kavčí lom
Between the routes 'Oko Bere' and 'Divoká Karta' along a prominent edge to a small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Kavčí lom
Approach via Wild Card, at its second bolt diagonally left across two of its own bolts to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Kavčí lom
Boulder route in the right part of the wall. Along the corner to the small balcony, from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

Nobody is looking for a partner here yet — be the first.