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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

7+
Kavčí lom
From the middle of the wall, boulder to the 1st bolt, then rightwards to the 2nd and 3rd,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Kavčí lom
To the left of Řevnická up the wall to the belay station. Nice technically demanding… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Kavčí lom
In the left part of the wall to the 2nd bolt, then slightly from the left to the third.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Kavčí lom
Between the routes Fénix and Řevnická directly in the line of the bolts a series of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Kavčí lom
Up the open corner in the same way as the route kavčí Pírko, then to the right over 8… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Kavčí lom
Slab to the right of the route Kavčí Spár. Slightly over ledges, then the slab and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Kavčí lom
In the left part a vertical, slightly salty wall under the belly. Over it and with the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Kavčí lom
In the left part of the wall directly to the belay station. Balanced climbing. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Kavčí lom
To the left of C. Sandstone Climbers' Paradise (originally over a chipped-off overhang,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Kavčí lom
To the left of the notch separating the right wall with paths. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Kavčí lom
Directly between the routes Pendolejno and Zogolická over 7 bolts to the rappel station,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Kavčí lom
On the left in the trench. Fine start up the sloping wall, which then becomes vertical.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Malá Dušičková stěna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Malá Dušičková stěna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Malá Dušičková stěna
Start about 8m to the right from the steep ledge, up the crumbly wall and along the down… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
8-
Kavčí lom
With a bouldering start, to the second (difficult from the left), then under small,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Kavčí lom
In the left part of the wall, the start is directly in the line of 6 bolts and upwards… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Malá Dušičková stěna
Climbing 'Petrklíč' (8-) on the 'Malá Dušičková stěna' is a true test of a climber's… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Malá Dušičková stěna
Malá Dušičková stěna, though perhaps not the most frequented crag, hides some true gems,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8
Malá Dušičková stěna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Malá Dušičková stěna
Start roughly in the middle of the Malá Dušičková wall along an inconspicuous rib, from… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7+
Malá Dušičková stěna
Climbing 'Bílá sobota' (7+) on the iconic 'Malá Dušičková stěna' in the Czech sandstone… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Malá Dušičková stěna
Climbing 'Zelený čtvrtek' (Green Thursday) on the 'Malá Dušičková stěna' (Small Soul Wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Růžová stěna
To the right along Solitary Road. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Růžová stěna
Cautiously to the first ring, then up a vertical wall to a ledge, to the second ring, and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
6+
Růžová stěna
Nice, non-polished and slightly brittle route to the right of the corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Růžová stěna
Climbing 'Váhavá' (grade 6+) on Růžová stěna is an experience that truly tests a climber… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
7-
Růžová stěna
Climbing 'Vzduchoplavecká' (7-) on Růžová stěna is a quintessential experience of Czech… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
7-
Růžová stěna
Nice route up the left corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Růžová stěna
The route leads to the right of Clay Serenade. Via the hook placed higher up to the ring… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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