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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

5-
Šanův kout - Hřeben a hrb
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4-
Šanův kout - 4. masiv
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5-
Šanův kout - Hřeben a hrb
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Šanův kout - Hřeben a hrb
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6+
Šanův kout - Hřeben a hrb
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5+
Šanův kout - 3. masiv
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Šanův kout - 4. masiv
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Šanův kout - 3. masiv
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Šanův kout - 3. masiv
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Šanův kout - 3. masiv
Rocks of the Czech Republic, ČHS database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
8/8+
Stáj
In the right part of the sector. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Stáj
Boulder problem over the overhang, above it diagonally right upwards via a bolt hanger to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Stáj
A nice step over the little ceiling. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Stáj
A series of crimpy boulder problems for long reaches. Under the overhang, move left into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
10-
Stáj
To the right of the road, on the back side, over a smooth overhang with long moves. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9/9+
Stáj
A line of side holds on a moderate overhang with an interesting exit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+
Stáj
In the center of the sector, see the inscription on the rock. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Stáj
A pretty good route even with large holds. Sometimes longer reaches. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Stáj
Climbing 'Shirský kůň' (The Shire Horse) in the 'Stáj' (The Stable) climbing area is a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Stáj
In the middle part of the sector, to the left of the Criollo path, an inscription on the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Stáj
Access at the hollowed-out crack, high up, along the lower side sections. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Stáj
On small strips Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Stáj
Climbing 'Irský cob' (Irish Cob), a route graded 6+, in the climbing area known as 'Stáj'… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Stáj
Climbing 'Appaloosa' (7+/8-) at Stáj was an unforgettable experience. This route, known… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Stáj
To the left of c. Bloody lump. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Stáj
dirty and dug out of a terrible crumbling rock Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Stáj
Boulder start, then under the overhang and directly over it. Approximately 7+. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Stáj
Crosses Friský kůň to the left Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Petr Bok
Short vertical route with a step-off into the right corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Petr Bok
Up a vertical wall with a summit boulder. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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