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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

7+
Červené stěny - Střed
Take the "Old Route via the Ring" up to the ring, and from the ring, diagonally right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
7+
Červené stěny - Mimikry
From the first bolt (bh) straight up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10+
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Endurance on good holds, possibly even harder 11-. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11+
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Under the loop in the "Mimicry" route, go left and then follow the line of bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Above the Mimikry route roof diagonally left over three bolts and then straight up over a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10+
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Beautiful power endurance climbing with several boulders and rests in between. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Červené stěny - Mimikry
From the ledge via a crack in the roof and then bouldering into easier terrain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Červené stěny - Mimikry
left of the "potatoes" and higher up this route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Freely onto the ledge (originally over a bolt below), overhanging and higher up the wall … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Stěna kotlů - levá část
In the fall line of the "Great Cauldron" without protection upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Stěna kotlů - levá část
To the right of the Malý Kotel (Small Cauldron) route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Stěna kotlů - levá část
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Stěna kotlů - levá část
Above the ring of Evina route, not left along the ledge, but directly upwards over 2… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Stěna kotlů - levá část
Start directly through the corner and further as Evina. Rock Climbing
4+
Stěna kotlů - levá část
Start left of the corner in the left part of the wall, slightly right and then back left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Stěna kotlů - pravá část
Start in the lower part of Barrandovka couloir, traversing right along the crack under… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
8-
Stěna kotlů - pravá část
3m right of the chimney start of routes "Forgotten Crack" and "Tedious" via a slightly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Stěna kotlů - pravá část
Along a prominent crack as the Tedious route (loose/brittle, unpleasant), then up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna kotlů - pravá část
Start from the right end of the large grassy platform (about 7m left of the birch tree).… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Blážina stěna - levá část
Original description: Start like for Halina's route. A crack extends diagonally right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
9-/9
Blážina stěna - levá část
Via the route "Solo for Govinda" to its fourth bolt. From there slightly diagonally left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Blážina stěna - levá část
Up the slabby wall via steps over 4 bolts and hourglasses of the "Blážina route" to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Blážina stěna - levá část
Via the Sokolík (gully/chimney) and slightly right to the ring; from there traverse about… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6
Blážina stěna - levá část
Completely to the left. Rock Climbing Laid wall

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