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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

4
Křížová stěna - pravá část
Approach approximately halfway up the couloir separating the Wall under the Cross from… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7+/8-
Křížová stěna - pravá část
Secured with pitons, 2x rings. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7+
Křížová stěna - pravá část
Climbing "Kvakerům pro radost" (graded 7+) is a memorable experience. The route, which… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Křížová stěna - pravá část
Approach right of "Perníková" (Gingerbread) at the characteristic small tower. Via a… Rock Climbing
6-
Křížová stěna - pravá část
Approach about 10m right of the lowest point of the wall (at the beginning of a ledge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6+
Křížová stěna - pravá část
Via the Autumn Route to the 2nd ring, from there rightwards up over an overhang formed by… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5+
Křížová stěna - pravá část
Via the Ypsilon route up to the grassy ledge and under the lower edge of the detached… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Křížová stěna - pravá část
Approach as for Ypsilon to the ring, then slightly down upwards to a piton, through a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Křížová stěna - levá část
Start in the fall line of the large corner, intersecting the wall to the right below the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Křížová stěna - levá část
Start to the right of the route "Vzpomínka na Pšendu", 2m left of a narrow deep hole at… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Křížová stěna - levá část
The ascent follows a large corner intersecting the wall right below the large cave on the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
7-
Křížová stěna - levá část
newly re-equipped with glued-in bolts Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vaňasova stěna
Start on the path left of the massive pillar, over the overhang to a piton, diagonally… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Křížová stěna - levá část
Left of the fall line of the large cave below the summit of the wall briefly upwards and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Křížová stěna - levá část
From the small cave with boulders, left up the slab under the overhang (piton), right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3+
Vaňasova stěna
Below the summit overhang traverse down and up a small corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vaňasova stěna
Start on the left edge of the Small Wall by the trees. Upwards and then diagonally right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Vaňasova stěna
Start from the path in the fall line of the massive overhanging corner. Over the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
7
Červené stěny - U cesty
On the small rock next to the path between "Pupek" (Navel) and "Červené převisy" (Red… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Červené stěny - U cesty
To the left of the route "Panákova cesta", up the wall over 3 bolts from the left, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Červené stěny - U cesty
Currently, the route is still in a prohibited part of the rocks! Near the route, about… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
8-
Červené stěny - U cesty
First route from the left, over 3 bolts to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Červené stěny - Vlevo
From the end of the initial overhang, go right through a crack over 2 bolts (bh) and with… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Červené stěny - Vlevo
Start as for "Klasika", from the crack directly up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Červené stěny - Vlevo
Free ascent of the original aid climb "Strašák directly", the route was re-equipped with… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Červené stěny - Vlevo
Up the lower slab on the right, through the middle over 2 rivets. Briefly along the crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Červené stěny - Vlevo
From the fourth protection of "Rychlý kola...", slightly left and up over 2 bolts (bh). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Červené stěny - Vlevo
From the third protection of "Michalovy", slightly right and directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Červené stěny - Vlevo
Up the slab to the left over two rivets to a ledge, slightly left along the small crack,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Červené stěny - Střed
In the right part of the slab, ascend the receding wall and about two meters left to the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay

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