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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

8-
Korno
Left of the "Korno" route. The right short route in the left part of the central wall.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Korno
In the upper half, a slab with small holds. Above the 6th bolt, the route modestly (i.e.,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Korno
Left of the pillar of the "Breakdance" route, up the wall, later a corner over 10 bolts,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Korno
The route follows a prominent high pillar in the left part of the wall. Moves on large… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Korno
Follow the route "Rony's Fight" to the end at the 7th bolt (maillon) and via the bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Korno
In the left part, up the wall and overhang over 8 bolts to the chain (1st bolt is in the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Korno
Right of the route "Rony's Fight" ("Knockout") up the slab and wall to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Korno
The route leads between Viennese Waltz and Muscle Corset. Start over a silver rivet in… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Korno
From the highest point of the terraces, start with delicate slab climbing in the middle… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Korno
In the left overhang to the left of the route "Beautiful Work" over 7 bolts to the chain. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-
Korno
From the upper terrace via slab climbing along the left edge (3 bolts) and over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Korno
The route is furthest left in the left overhang. Left of the route "Over the Jaw" over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Korno
Fore-rock, then slab and corner from the left along the overhang to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Korno
Shorter route all the way to the left (4 bolts + rappel). Friction climbing over round… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Aniččina stěna
Up the wall over 4 bolts, a rivet and a bolt to the abseil point, in the right rear part… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Aniččina stěna
Up the wall and a small overhang over 5 bolts to the abseil bolt. From the fifth bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Aniččina stěna
Apparently a working access brittle route up the right pillar to the top of the wall (2… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Aniččina stěna
Middle of the wall to the right of Kout. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Aniččina stěna
Up the corner (5 bolts) and directly (S-bend from left to right) over the break (1 bolt)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Aniččina stěna
Up the wall along the right edge of Aniččina stěna (Anička's Wall) and traverse left to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Aniččina stěna
Start at the left edge diagonally right over two eyes, left onto the ledge (rivet) and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-
Centrál
From the left along the slab wall under the final overhang and from the right around it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Centrál
Through the wall to the overhanging end Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Pod vodopádem
Farthest to the right on the slab near the waterfall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Pod vodopádem
Left side of the slab Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Pod vodopádem
Middle of the slab Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Pod vodopádem
Last route on the right before the slab. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Zebra
(UIAA 7-), 11 quickdraws Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Zebra
(UIAA 8-), 10 quickdraws Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Zebra
(UIAA 7/7+), 11 quickdraws Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay

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