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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

8-
Lom u cesty
In the middle of the quarry to the right of the overgrown pillar up the wall (3 bh) to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Lom u cesty
Start from the balcony in the middle part of the quarry (between the routes Zkratka do… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Lom u cesty
Start from the balcony in the middle part of the quarry (between the routes Zkratka do… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Lom u cesty
From the lower left part of the quarry over a prominent ledge and then over smaller… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Lom u cesty
Over 12 BH to the rappel station. At 12 meters, there is a transfer rappel station on a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Lom u cesty
In the upper left part of the quarry, via a relatively smooth slab over 6 bh to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Korno
Via the vertical wall to the right of the corner over three ledges and carefully to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Korno
Start to the right of the prominent corner. Up the smooth slab, then easier under the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Lom u cesty
To the left of the route Poklice, up a short slab, then left onto the slab and up it to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Korno
Through the corner in the upper right part of the quarry all the way up to the second… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Korno
Via the route "Kulový" (10 bh + chain) eventually and further over 8 bh to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Korno
Start like route "Céčko" 6 (fore-rock and corner in the upper right part of the quarry; 8… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Korno
Via the fore-rock and corner in the upper right part of the quarry to the chain. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Korno
Among the longest routes on the right wall (9 bolts) to the chain. One of the easiest… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Korno
First route to the left of the upper corner. Curves, ledges, two technical moves. The… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Korno
Climbing starts from the very beginning, carefully to the 2nd bolt, crimps and ledges. To… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Korno
First long route on the right terraces. Continuation of "Resonance". Follow Resonance to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Korno
Start like Geometric Figure over 6 brown bolts to a ledge, from there directly over 5… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-
Korno
Second route to the right of the "Petrklíč" route, technical. From the central ledge to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Korno
Leads along the most prominent edge of the entire wall. Up the wall and later along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Korno
Follow the Finále (Evina) route to the 10th bolt and diagonally right over 4 bolts … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Korno
Right of the "Petrklíč" route, up the sculpted wall and over the chimney to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Korno
The route leads to the right of the central pillar. The first third is on rounder holds,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Korno
Right of the Rozstřel route directly over 10 bolts into the Rozstřel route and follow it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Korno
Right of the Nekličkuj route, up the wall and through a hollow over 13 bolts to the bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Korno
Follow the Finále route along the most prominent edge over the 9th fixed quickdraw to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Korno
Up the middle of the wall (light rock in the center), to the 10th bolt, above it with a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Korno
Up the wall, later corners over 12 bolts to the chain. At the 7th bolt, a fixed quickdraw… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Korno
First part of the Porno route, ends at the lower chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Korno
Directly over 12 bolts into the Korno route and follow it to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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