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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

3+
Lezecký park Alkazar
Climbing "Kroužek (Dlouhá)" in Lezecký park Alkazar, graded at 3+, offers a pleasant and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Aniččina stěna
from the Fata Morgana route diagonally right along the line of bolts (fourth from left),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3-
Lezecký park Alkazar
directly from the Descent entrance Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Centrál
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Colaloca
Well-protected easy route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Lezecký park Alkazar
Climbing "Nová Petrova cesta" (New Peter's Route), graded 4+, is a rewarding experience.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Aniččina stěna
Via Šikmá plocha (Slanted Slab) over 2 bolts then left above the 2nd bolt of Safari and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Lezecký park Alkazar
Climbing "Krátká" (grade 3) in Lezecký park Alkazar was a pleasant and accessible… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Křížová stěna - levá část
From the 3rd ring, diagonally down above the cave and through a shallow recess directly…
9-
Aniččina stěna
5th line of bolts from the left. Via Skluzavka (Slide), from the 4th bolt traverse all… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
10+/11-
Červené stěny - Vlevo
To the right of "Smashing...", over seven bolts to the lower-off. A bold line on… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Homole (Malý Matterhorn)
The New Path variant, around the adit from the left.
11+
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Brutal powerful roof and sharp edges on the exit, boulder approximately 8C. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8
Červené stěny - Mimikry
completely on the left in the upper sector, start through the corner, over an overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Aniččina stěna
Start on the Safari route, at the 2nd bolt turns diagonally right, crosses the 3rd bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
10-
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Boulder route with a nice exit wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
?
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Difficult bolted line. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
10-/10
Červené stěny - Mimikry
Small holds below, a powerful ceiling with a difficult exit and a beautiful easy slab at… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Lezecký park Alkazar
Climbing 'Přes spáru' (grade 4+) at Lezecký park Alkazar offers a delightful and classic… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Blážina stěna - pravá část
On the right side of the cave, which is to the right of the Legacy of the Old Man, up to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
9-
Aniččina stěna
Along the third line of bolts from the left, above the 3rd bolt left into the Šikmá… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Skála v Kozle
In the right wall of the right pillar via a short crack, wall and corner to the balcony… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
5
Skála v Kozle
Up a prominent laid-back pillar across 4 bolts to its summit, then left up the wall,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
8-
Skála v Kozle
To the right of the Šňuplajna route. Through mud and bushes to the 1st nut, then into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Skála v Kozle
Below the third bolt of the Ondrova Lajna route, right across 2 bolts directly to the 5th… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9
Skála v Kozle
Under a distinct overhang, start directly below the first bolt. From the right over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Skála v Kozle
Route to the right of the Ráno v Conegliano route, via a notch under the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
5
Skála v Kozle
From the left around the overhang and up the wall, over the upper small overhang via a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Skála v Kozle
Start to the right of the overhang up a vertical wall (6 bolts) to a large balcony and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9
Skála v Kozle
On the right edge of the overhang across 4 bolts to a ledge and then more easily across… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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