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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

Srbsko – left bank 708 routes Rocks near Koněprusy 256 routes Srbsko – right bank 199 routes Svatý Jan pod Skalou 170 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Jižní hrana
To the right of the pillar, up the wall (piton) under the overhang. From the right,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Jižní hrana
Up the small pillar and the small corner, to the right onto the small shelf. Along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Jižní hrana
By corner and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Jižní hrana
From the ledge directly up the slab to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Jižní hrana
Start with a crack in the wall to the left of the distinctive corner. Up into the hole,… Rock Climbing
6+
Jižní hrana
Up the wall to the start of the corner and traverse left into the crack. Along the cracks… Rock Climbing
4
Jižní hrana
Up the edge and crack, diagonally to the right to the tree and through the middle of the… Rock Climbing
5
Jižní hrana
Up the face into the double crack. Finally, up the right crack, traverse left (to the… Rock Climbing
7
Jižní hrana
To the left of Jedovatá, across the overhang (bh) via a vertical gully (ring) and a crack… Rock Climbing
5
Jižní hrana
Over the overhang and through the crack to the summit. (3 bolts + chain) Rock Climbing
4-
Jižní hrana
Through a groove over the overhang and up the wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Jelínkův most
Approach slightly to the right of the prominent indentation under Jelínek's Bridge.… Rock Climbing
4
Jelínkův most
To the left, 5 m from the start of the left route of the Celtic Pillar, through a corner… Rock Climbing Laid wall
6+
Jelínkův most
Up the wall along the edge, to the left and directly into the corner. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Jelínkův most
From the ring diagonally to the left (hook) to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Laid wall
4
Jelínkův most
From the ring (Pillar of the Celts - left route) traverse to the right and along the… Rock Climbing
6
Jelínkův most
Up the crack slightly to the right and directly below the broken edge. Along it to the… Rock Climbing Laid wall
5
Jelínkův most
Up the slab on the right, along the crack and the recess (book) to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Jelínkův most
Start up the vertical wall section, higher right to the anchor. Up into the corner and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Laid wall
5
Jelínkův most
Up the wall and through the indentation over the overhang to the ledge (a chock is wedged… Rock Climbing Laid wall
4-
Jelínkův most
Along the edge of the wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
7-
Jelínkův most
Through the crack from the right or the overhanging wall to the top of the pillar (ring).… Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
3
Jelínkův most
Upwards through an indentation, diagonally right across the slab and up a small wall to… Rock Climbing Laid wall
4+
Jelínkův most
Along the small pillar to below the overhang and to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Malá Dušičková stěna
Climbing 'Tmavý převis,' a captivating grade 7 route on the Malá Dušičková stěna, is a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Vanový kout
In the middle part of the wall, over 5 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vanový kout
Balance of the first, effort of the second, keep going. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Vanový kout
Up a smooth slab to the left, over three protections to the belay station. Belay station… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Vanový kout
To the right of Vanového Koutu, in the middle over a small overhang. Belay station shared… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-
Černý dům
On the way, you will be pursued by the feeling of opening doors. Very interesting… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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