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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

5+
Skála mezi Andělskou stěnou a Šanovým koutem
Rock Climbing
5
Andělská stěna
Climbing "Andělské kůry" (Angel Choirs), a grade 5 route on the magnificent "Andělská… Rock Climbing
4
Andělská stěna
Rock Climbing
3
Andělská stěna
Rock Climbing
4
Andělská stěna
Rock Climbing
?
Andělská stěna
Unfinished route. Rock Climbing
4
Andělská stěna
Rock Climbing
6
Bonzák
12th route from the left. In the upper part it connects with John Wick 2 and ends with a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Bonzák
9th route from the left in the sector. Between routes 8 and John Wick 1. Nice climbing on… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Bonzák
Straight to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Bonzák
8th route in the sector, from the left (and from the back of the quarry). Finish and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Bonzák
Route 10 in the sector, counted from the left (and from the back of the quarry). It's the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Bonzák
6th route in the sector, from the left (and from the back of the quarry). Somewhat dirty… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Bonzák
4th route in the sector, from the left (and from the back of the quarry). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Bonzák
7th route in the sector, from the left (and from the back of the quarry) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Bonzák
The 5th route in the sector, taken from the left (and from the back of the quarry). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Bonzák
In the back part of the quarry, 2 paths lead to a somewhat separate massif. Then there… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Bonzák
The second path from the left at the back of the quarry. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Bonzák
The final path at the back of the quarry. Upwards over several overhangs. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Stáj
All the way to the right. Under the overhang and to the quicklink above it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Petr Bok
Verticals to the right of the edge, rounded holds and slopers, everything stands nicely. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Petr Bok
Quite a nice warm-up climb on the arête. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Petr Bok
A nice, technically situated tuner. To the right of Sardinia. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Petr Bok
Left of the Petrbo Memorial route. On delicate holds and steps. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Petr Bok
Left of the Sardegna route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Petr Bok
The path leads through a blunt cut. Powerfully technical. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Petr Bok
In the corner, between routes 13A and Ona. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Petr Bok
Along an indistinct corner edge, then slightly to the right. End like route On. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8
Petr Bok
Left of route 30H (same chain). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Petr Bok
Runs to the left of the memorial plaque, later to the left of the overhang and above it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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