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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

8+
Petr Bok
It leads to the right of the memorial plaque. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Petr Bok
The approach is like Dual World, under the overhang to the right and directly over it to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Petr Bok
Lower down, technically on the wall; then powerfully at the end over the overhang and to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Petr Bok
Runs in the left part of the sector. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8
Petr Bok
In the left part of the sector, up the wall and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Petr Bok
Start slightly left of the first bolt, then straight over the overhang to the chain. Name… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Petr Bok
In the left part of the sector, an inscription on the rock. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Petr Bok
Slightly to the left in the sector. Up the wall, a short, distinct crack, and over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Šuplíkárna
A strength and endurance journey along good grips. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8-/8
Šuplíkárna
A powerful traverse along the edge of the ceiling with an interesting cutout. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
9/9+
Šuplíkárna
Boulder variant for cold weather Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8-/8
Šuplíkárna
Surprisingly powerful, including the clicking of bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
10-
Extrém
Start "Ja, schmeckt gut", along the edge of the roof to the right, end "Jumbo". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Extrém
Start at the blunt edge (together as Jumbo), over the overhang to the bolt and to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Extrém
Start of 'A Star Is Born', along the right edge of the ceiling, end of 'Jumbo'. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Extrém
Boulder at the first one, the downclimb to the left is a reward. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
9+
Extrém
Ascent on the blunt edge, over the small roof to the bolt, then climb up along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Extrém
Powerful bouldering from start to almost finish. After the hold broke off in the start,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4
Coupé
From the inscription 'Baťka's Way' under the large roof, through the corner under the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Jižní hrana
Through the middle of the pillar to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Jižní hrana
Through the wall and the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Jižní hrana
Right of the south edge. Via the wall through a hole into the cave. To the right and up… Rock Climbing
2
Jižní hrana
Hollowing out to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Jižní hrana
Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Jižní hrana
Along the right edge of the wall to the crack. Upwards left onto the overhang and along… Rock Climbing
6+
Jižní hrana
Between the routes Southern Edge and Character Straightening, along the white strip on… Rock Climbing
5
Jižní hrana
Through the crack on the shelf and slightly to the left along the wall to the circle.… Rock Climbing
5-
Jižní hrana
Up the wall around the overhang into the crack and along it under the flake. Over it from… Rock Climbing
5+
Jižní hrana
Up the wall and along the crack to the ring. Then directly upwards up the vertical wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Jižní hrana
Up the wall and higher through a crack into the hole. Via a crack/seam over the overhang… Rock Climbing

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