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Climbing at Bohemian Karst

1333 routes
4 areas
1–11+ grades

Bohemian Karst is a limestone area south-west of Prague, inside the protected landscape area along the Berounka river between Beroun and Karlštejn and around the Kačák stream from Svatý Jan pod Skalou. The steep limestone walls above the river are considered some of the best limestone in Bohemia, with Karlštejn castle close by. The best-known and largest crag is Srbsko, about 10 km from Beroun, visible from the village and with a campsite below the cliffs; other sectors include Tetínské skály, Kobyla, Kotýz, Svatý Jan pod Skalou and the Branické skály in Prague. Climbing here dates back to 1940.

Climbing is on small holds on walls, slabs and overhangs, both sport and trad – protection is bolts, rings, pitons and occasionally nuts, with UIAA or French grades depending on the sector. The north-facing right bank of the Berounka suits summer, the left bank ("Old Srbsko") spring, autumn and mild winter days. Rules are managed by the Czech Mountaineering Association: Svatý Jan pod Skalou and Kotýz have seasonal restrictions, Šanův kout and Andělská stěna are closed, and Tetín and Kobyla operate under annual agreements with the municipalities. Tomáškův lom carries a rockfall risk. Entry is free; parking for each sector is listed in the current guidebook (2022).

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Karst has 1333 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11+. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
  • Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
  • Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
  • No climbing on wet rock.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

5-
Vanový kout
The leftmost route. Through a slabby corner to the left over three bolts, then straight… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Hladká plotna
Description unclear, unconfirmed. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Černý dům
To the left of the right adit, past two safety points, to the abseil. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hladká plotna
Along the right edge of the smooth slab (left of the Dead Mother-in-Law), then over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Hladká plotna
To the right of the Polynesian (feature), along the smooth slab, above it and easily… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Hladká plotna
In the right part of the smooth slab. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Hladká plotna
Far right in the smooth plate. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Hladká plotna
Through the center of the smooth plate. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Dolce
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hladká plotna
Left of the Polynesian starting bulge (bypassing from the left, 5+), then an indistinct… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Hladká plotna
Start left of the Polynesian, first left and then diagonally through the easiest parts of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Hladká plotna
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Dolce
From the right around the adit over bolt and rivet, then like the Podraz route. Or finish… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Dolce
In the cave. Start on the right side of the vault with powerful pulls on the holes to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Dolce
According to the description in the guide by Karel Žák (1992), the route largely overlaps… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Laid wall
7-
Dolce
Start to the left as the Dolce far niente route (2 bolts) and then further right and over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Dolce
Through the right part of the black band with lichen, over the hooks for rappelling. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Dolce
Shared start/approach to the left via the Dolce Vita route (2 bh), then straight across… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Colaloca
Along Humlova route to the ledge, then via the right small pillar over the bolt hanger. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Colaloca
To the left of the road "Goodbye Slovakia". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Colaloca
To the left of Pro Radku, chimney Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3+
Colaloca
Start to the right of the adit, and diagonally to the left. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Colaloca
Up the left wall of the adit, a boulder above the adit and then more easily up the small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Colaloca
To the right of the adit, ascending traverse slightly to the left Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Colaloca
third from the left Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Homole (Malý Matterhorn)
3+
Colaloca
On the massive rock completely on the left, the route furthest to the right along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Colaloca
In the left low wall, second from the left Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Colaloca
Completely on the left by a short pillar Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Homole (Malý Matterhorn)
Slightly sloping wall from the floor to the summit balcony

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