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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
5+
Kaskády
From the large terrace on the valley side, to the left of the chimney, over the overhang… Rock Climbing
5+
Kaskády
From the large terrace on the valley side, at the right edge of the chimney, up the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Kaskády
To the right of the path above the bivouac, through the crack to the K and up the wall … Rock Climbing
4+
Kaskády
In the right part of the valley wall, from the bivouac, up the wall over K to the large… Rock Climbing
4+
Kaskády
To the right of the 'Molehill' route, up the wall from the left above the overhang into… Rock Climbing
4-
Kaskády
In the center of the valley wall, by crack below the rappel to the large terrace and by… Rock Climbing
4-
Kaskády
To the right of the 'Hiker's Crack', up the wall over K to the large terrace. Rock Climbing
3
Kaskády
In the left part of the valley wall, by wide crack to the large terrace. Rock Climbing
5
Kaskády
From the large terrace on the valley side, up the wall at the W edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Šutr
Along the ledge. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Pískovna
About 15m to the right of the 'Jaundice' route, from the right into the center of the… Rock Climbing
4+
Pískovna
Left of the 'Jaundice' route, up the wall along the S edge via K straight or right via a… Rock Climbing
5+
Studený průchod
From the tourist path around the Studený průchod (Cold Passage), from the grassy plateau… Rock Climbing
4+
Studený průchod
After entering the Cold Passage from the W side, left by crack (loop) and chimney in the… Rock Climbing
2+
Studený průchod
To the right of the 'Around Rages Heat' route, deeper in the chimney by stemming and… Rock Climbing
4-
Studený průchod
After entering the Cold Passage from the E side, right into the chimney and then via K to… Rock Climbing
5+
Studený průchod
Opposite the Kašlava crack, a wide crack to K. Further, a wide crack or hand crack to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Loukovák
In the left part of the valley wall through the corner and chimney to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
6-
Studený průchod
Before entering the Studený průchod (Cold Passage), along the narrow E edge via K to the… Rock Climbing
3
Olšinská věžička
From the window in the valley-side wall into a narrow chimney and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Olšinská věžička
To the left of the Normal route via a short crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Věžička u rozcestí
From the ledge of the Říjnová cesta (October Route), traverse right to a pinnacle and… Rock Climbing
3
Věžička u rozcestí
Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Věžička u rozcestí
Via a chimney to the balcony and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Věžička u rozcestí
Via a groove in the valley-side (NW) wall diagonally right to the 1st K. Directly,… Rock Climbing
2+
Věžička u rozcestí
From the platform via a corner and a chimney. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Věžička u rozcestí
From the ledge of the Říjnová cesta (October Route) upwards, traverse left to the K of… Rock Climbing

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