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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
6-
Zpěvačka
In the left part of the valley wall, start with the right or left crack and over the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Zpěvačka
Approach via the Tourist Route, higher up the overhanging wall to the left of the Pódium… Rock Climbing
5+
Zpěvačka
From the East edge below the overhang, through the overhanging crack to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8-/8
Zpěvačka
In the lower part of the gully between Zpěvačka and Mariánka, up the wall to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing
3
Zpěvačka
Up the crack about 6 m, diagonally left through a notch and groove to a ledge. Left to…
5
Zpěvačka
From the ledge to the right, a short crack in the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Kartářka
From the gully between Kartářka and Zpěvačka, briefly up the chimney and traverse left to… Rock Climbing
4-
Kartářka
To the right of the Per partes route, up a narrow chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Mariánka
To the right of the Koutová route, up the wall to the 1st K. Directly, higher up the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Mariánka
Up the valley wall to the crack, through it over the 1st K to the ramps and directly up… Rock Climbing
4-
Mariánka
Up the corner chimney from the plateau side to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Mariánka
From the gully between Mariánka and Zpěvačka, up the narrowing chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Vechtr
Start in the corner like Veksl and to the right up the wall to K. Up the wall along the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vechtr
To the right of the valley edge, up the wall to the 1st K. Along the edge to the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing
5+
Vechtr
To the right of the Život štvance (Life of an Outcast) route, up the corner to below the… Rock Climbing
6-
Vechtr
In the valley wall, a prominent curved crack under the overhang to K and over the… Rock Climbing
6-
Vechtr
From the chimney in the left part of the valley wall to the edge and to the 1st K. Along… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Pláž
Via the Italský prázdniny route up to the 2nd K. Directly up the wall (3rd and 4th K) and… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Pláž
In the middle part of the valley wall, up a slightly overhanging wall to the 1st K. Up… Rock Climbing
6
Pláž
In the right part of the valley wall directly to the 1st K. First right, then back left… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Pláž
In the left part of the valley wall, through a crack to an inclined ledge and directly up… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Pamětní věž
From the saddle on the plateau side, descend into the gully, up the wall to a ledge and… Rock Climbing
5+
Pamětní věž
Along the right valley edge via a ramp and crack over the 1st K to the balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Pamětní věž
On the valley side, from the corner between the Memorial Tower and Pláž, through the… Rock Climbing
3
Pamětní věž
To the left of the Paradajs Cross route, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Pamětní věž
Left valley (S) edge to the clock and to K. Directly, higher up via the Citlivá místa… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Pamětní věž
In the middle of the valley wall, through a crack narrowing into a fissure to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing
6-
Pamětní věž
From the 1st K of the Pitomci v lednici route, turn right into a wide crack and through… Rock Climbing
6-
Baterka
From the saddle between Kvid and the Memorial Tower on the plateau side, up the wall and… Rock Climbing
4+
Kvido
From the center of the valley wall diagonally right to the crack and through it over K to… Rock Climbing

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