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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
6-
Lom
In the left part of the wall via a corner over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Štuky
Via the left artificially carved corner to the 1st ring. Over the hourglass to the ledge… Rock Climbing
4-
Štuky
In the left part of the valley wall over the blocks to a large ledge and up the corner… Rock Climbing
5+
Štuky
To the left of the artificially carved corner via a small pillar to the ledge and left… Rock Climbing
6-
Štuky
To the right of the 'Corner Crack' route, from the block along the edge over the 1st K to… Rock Climbing
5+
Štuky
To the right of the 'Snakes and Scorpions' route via a corner to the ledge, via a corner… Rock Climbing
6-
Štuky
In the middle of the valley wall via a crack (loops) and to the right via an inclined… Rock Climbing
11
Železník
Up the wall to the right of the edge over the rings (likely typo for 'dvě kruhy' - two… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Železník
To the right of the 'Last Minute' route, up the overhanging crack in the narrow wall of… Rock Climbing
4+
Železník
To the right behind the Chinese Wall, up the chimney between the wall and the pillar,… Rock Climbing
5
Mongol
Opposite the SE edge of the Chinese Tower (Edge of Soviet-Chinese Friendship) along the… Rock Climbing
6
Herold
Left of the path from chimney to chimney along the edge and wall diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Herold
From the slope to the left of the left valley edge, up the narrowing chimney to its end… Rock Climbing
9+
Hláska (Clamorna)
Left of the 'Moderní časy' (Modern Times) route up the wall via 4 K, right and further up… Rock Climbing
5+
Hláska (Clamorna)
Directly up the crack from the base of the tower. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Hláska (Clamorna)
Via the 'Cesta prokletých duší' (Path of Cursed Souls) under the large overhang. Right … Rock Climbing
5+
Hláska (Clamorna)
From the start of the Standard route, along the ledge left to the crack and through it. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Knedlík
Right of the 'Goulash with Six' route in the lower part of the steps by opposition and… Rock Climbing
4+
Knedlík
In the upper part of the steps between Dráb and Knedlík, up the wall via K to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Knedlík
Right of the 'Konvrzek' route along the edge over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Knedlík
Via the 'Capite, Corde, Manibus' route up to the 2nd K, traverse right to the 3rd K and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Drábský sloup
From the Drábský Massif. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8/8+
Drábský masív
From the gorge between the cloverleaf and the NE face of the Drábský Massif, up the wall… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Drábský masív
Follow "Holy Man" route up to the 3rd ring. Directly up the wall to the 4th and 5th rings… Rock Climbing
4+
Drábský masív
Between Jarní (Spring) and Vyhlídková (Viewpoint), directly around the edge of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Drábský masív
Left of the "Without Words" route, up the wall below the overhang and directly over it to… Rock Climbing
6
Drábský masív
Left of "Route for Anička", from the edge of the chimney, up the wall left to the ring.… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Drábský masív
From the lower part of the steps below the NW wall, along the edge to the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing
6-
Drábský masív
Between the edge and "Hungry Route", up the wall to the ring, directly and right along … Rock Climbing
5
Drábský masív
From the summit of Partyzán, from the pine tree, step across into the wall, up to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1

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