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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
8-/8
Země žen
On the plateau (W) side, to the right of the chimney, up the cracks to the 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Květ oslav
Between the routes 'Alkoholik' (Alcoholic) and 'Avona mu poradí' (Avona advises him) via… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Květ oslav
Left on the valley side, directly up the face to the 1st ring. Via a crack right to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Květ oslav
Via the right crack in the valley face over a ring to the end, then via a corner and over… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Květ oslav
Via the left crack in the valley face over the 1st ring below an overhang. Over the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Květ oslav
Via the route 'Touhy náctiletých' (Teenage Desires) to the corner and up the face left… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Atletická stěna
Briefly like 'Svijanský doping' (Svijany Doping) and hand-traversing right in the ledge… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Atletická stěna
In the right part of the massif, up the face over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Atletická stěna
In the left part of the massif, directly up the face over 'hodiny' (hourglass) and 3… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Masiv starých časů
Via the HNF route to 'hodiny' (hourglass) and then directly along the edge over 2 rings… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Masiv starých časů
All the way to the right on the W side of the massif, via a crack in the edge to 'hodiny'… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Masiv starých časů
From the center of the W face left to the 1st ring. Directly below the crack to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
6-
Masiv starých časů
From the start of the crack right and via a curved 'sokolík' (small chimney) over the… Rock Climbing
6
Masiv starých časů
From the plateau side, from 'Kamaradská věž' (Comrade's Tower), briefly via stemming and… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Masiv starých časů
Through the center of the W face directly to the 'sokolík' (small chimney) and to the 1st… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Masiv starých časů
To the left of the route 'Skok v čase' (Jump in Time) via the face right (3 rings), then… Rock Climbing
6-
Masiv starých časů
To the right of the route 'Půlnoční rebel...' (Midnight Rebel...) via a chimney and a… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Masiv starých časů
To the right of the route 'Anarchie' via cracks over 2 bolt hangers (BH) directly to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Masiv starých časů
Via the route 'Jasoň' to the 3rd ring. Right into the face and directly over holes and… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Masiv starých časů
Via the valley (NW) edge over 'hodiny' (hourglass) and 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Ztracená země
In the right part of the valley face, via the 'sokolík' (small chimney) to the right onto… Rock Climbing
5+
Ztracená země
Via the route 'Tvrdé přistání' (Hard Landing) to the balcony and via the chimney to a… Rock Climbing
4+
Ztracená země
To the right of the route 'Elixír 12' along a crack ('hodiny' - hourglass), higher up via… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Ztracená země
Together with the route 'Tvrdé přistání' (Hard Landing) to the balcony. Via a fine crack… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Ztracená země
To the right of the route 'Mimo zákon' (Outside the Law) via a corner crack and fissure … Rock Climbing
8-/8
Ztracená země
In the left part of the NE valley face, via a narrow crack along the corner, higher up… Rock Climbing
6-
Ztracená země
From the edge over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Ztracená země
In the middle of the NW face, via a crack over a ring (loops) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ztracená země
In the NW face, traverse left along a ledge to a balcony ('hodiny' - hourglass). Right to… Rock Climbing
6-
Ztracená země
From the lowest point of the right part of the valley face, via 'hodiny' (hourglass) to a… Rock Climbing

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