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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
8/8+
Janebova věž
In the side (SW) wall to the left of the route 'Skalp', straight up the wall over the 1st… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Janebova věž
From the 2nd ring along the edge. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Pragovka
Along the right valley (NW) edge diagonally left into a hole to the 1st ring. Up, left to… Rock Climbing
5
Pragovka
From the chimney on the plateau side, left via an overhanging corner up to the ring,… Rock Climbing
4+
Pragovka
Up the sloping plateau wall over the ring to the summit. 30. Janeb's Tower Rock Climbing
5
Geront
In the left part of the valley wall into a hole, up the wall over the ring to a ledge and… Rock Climbing
5+
Geront
In the right part of the massif, up the wall into a crack and through it over the ring to… Rock Climbing
4-
Geront
Through the middle of the valley wall to the ring. Higher up a gully (hourglass), from… Rock Climbing
5+
Plynárna
Between 'Song of the Hammer' and 'Screech of Rubber' to the left into the center of the… Rock Climbing
2+
Plynárna
To the left of the route 'Propane', up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Plynárna
In the right part of the massif, over an overhang and up the wall over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Plynárna
To the right of the route 'Ojebaná', up the chimney with a narrow exit to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
Below the large valley chimney, a crack leads to a ledge and an edge to the left of the… Rock Climbing
4+
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
To the left of the "My Golden Antlers" route in the side wall through a crack and higher… Rock Climbing
5
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
To the right of the Quaker's Pearl, first up the wall left, then right over K to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
To the left of the Quick Awakening route, up the corner, higher up the wall over K to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
To the right of the Fast Frog route, up the wall to K and right up the corner to the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
Through the broken wide chimney in the valley wall to a ledge and a pillar to the right… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
From the 2nd ring of the "Vendulka has a birthday" route, up the wall slightly right over… Rock Climbing
6
Nenitověž
To the right of the Klapzuba's Lager route, up the wall over 2 K to the summit. 26. Landa… Rock Climbing
5
Jogín
Up the sharp valley edge (sling) to K and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Jogín
To the right of the valley edge, up the wall over shelves to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Jogín
From the plateau side up the wall and through the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Jogín
From the NE side up the chimney and step across into the wall to K. Diagonally right to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Doubravská věž
Start as route '20 Free Flights' or with a graceful jump into the hole. Left along the… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Doubravská věž
Up the overhanging east wall via 5 K, higher up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Doubravská věž
*** WARNING ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of questionable quality… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
4+
Kapřík
To the right of the 'Gorbiho 35' route from the block traverse left up the wall to K and… Rock Climbing
5+
Kapřík
Opposite the right upper edge towards Supa by stemming and up the wall to K. Directly… Rock Climbing
3
Komáří masív
In the N face, to the right of the 'Hasty Route', up a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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