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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
5+
Rovné skály
Up the twin crack in the corner (ring) to the summit.
6
Rovné skály
Up the overhanging crack to a grassy ledge. Through the crack over the cave diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Rovné skály
Up the small pinnacle and the face under the overhang to the ring. Through the wide crack…
6-
Rovné skály
Up the chimney to the block, left into the crack and up it (ring - additionally placed)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Rovné skály
From the corner, traverse left to the small pinnacle and from there to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Rovné skály
From the gorge, up the left part of the loose wall to the ring. Up into the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Spící mnich
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Spící mnich
Along the SW edge and the slab. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7+/8-
Trojitá věž
Follow the Scent of the Line route to the 1st R. Left beyond the edge and up the wall… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Trojitá věž
Briefly up the Bublanina route and left via the wall to the 1st R. Via the small cracks… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Trojitá věž
Follow Bublanina route up to 2nd R and diagonally right over 3rd R to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Trojitá věž
Through the chimney and with an upward thrust to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Trojitá věž
Small cracks/holds to the ledge and along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8/8+
Kapradí
Along the sharp valley edge to the large pinnacles. Up the wall along the edge … Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kapradí
To the left of the Beetle Army route, up the wall slightly left to the bolt and directly… Rock Climbing
2+
Kapradí
Via a short crack on the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Kapradí
Via a steep ascent from the plateau side. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
2+
Kapradí
Along the narrow crack on the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kočičí stěna
From the start of the Odštěpy (Flakes) route directly up the wall and crack (loop) to the… Rock Climbing
5
Kočičí stěna
On the right side of the gully in the middle part of the massif, left along the corner… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Kočičí stěna
From the chimney between the Cat's Wall and Kotě Tower diagonally left to the edge and to… Rock Climbing
6-
Kočičí stěna
From the starting ledge of Shopping Fever directly over the overhang into the wall and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kočičí stěna
To the right of Kotě Tower along the West edge via 2 bolts to the crack and further along… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Kočičí stěna
To the left of the prominent corner in the left part of the massif, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Kočičí stěna
To the left of the Kitaróni route up the wall to the 1st and 2nd bolt. Slightly right to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Kočičí stěna
In the middle part, where the massif is broadly divided, up the center of the left wall… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Kočičí stěna
To the right of the prominent corner in the left part of the massif via hourglasses and 3… Rock Climbing
5+
Průvan
Along the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Průvan
Opposite the Geront massif, via the overhanging edge of the pillar over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Machkova věž
From the start of the 'Pikokmiťák' route through the chimney and left along the S edge… Rock Climbing

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