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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Google Waze
Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5+
Pamětní věž
Through the middle of the E wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Pamětní věž
From the ring of the Anniversary Route, left to the edge to the 2nd ring and directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Šutr
Up the center of the small wall. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Pig
Edge (ring).
6-
Pig
Up the wall over the ring.
2
Šutr
Over wedged boulders to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Pig
Up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Pig
By small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Pig
Up the small wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Žuk
Through a narrow chimney to the fore-rock and by stepping over to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Žuk
Up the center of the wall to the ring, right into a narrow chimney and directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Žuk
Along the edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Žuk
By indentation to the ring and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Olšinská věžička
Via a crack in the left part of the N wall. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Olšinská věžička
In the N wall to the right via a wide chimney. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Olšinská věžička
Through the center of the N wall to a ring bolt, directly into a wide crack and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Olšinská věžička
Up the E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5+
Věžička u rozcestí
Up the edge, up the wall to the right (ring bolt) to a gully and along it to the summit.
6+/7-
Modrá planeta
Up the middle of the pillar directly to the 1st ring. Diagonally to the edge (2nd ring)…
5+
Modrá planeta
From the ring of the Mexico route, via the crack left to the top.
8+/9-
Modrá planeta
Straight up the wall over three rings to the top.
8/8+
Tajuplný měsíc
Up the wall to the 1st ring. Through the crack and over the overhang to the 2nd ring,…
8-/8
Tajuplný měsíc
Through the crack to the end and over a small overhang to the 1st ring. Up the wall to…
6
Modrá planeta
Via the corner crack to the ledge and traverse left along it to the ring. Directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Trojitá věž
From the 1st R of Bublanina route up into the ledge and in it diagonally left (2nd R) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Trojitá věž
From the 2nd R left to the edge into the crack, along it to the end and up the wall to…
7/7+
Trojitá věž
Directly to the 1st ring, from the right (2nd ring - added later) to the 3rd ring and…
2+
Trojitá věž
Into the chimney, over the platform and via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Trojitá věž
From the ledge up the wall to the crack and along it (loops) to the right. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Trojitá věž
Via the slab (ring) to the ledge with the pine tree, up the wall and chimney to the…

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